describe all the martial arts, and how they're connected ## Black Books IMPROVISED MUNITIONS Black Books Vols. I, II, and III "Nothing added, nothing taken away" Typed by The Mad Cracker ****************************************************************************** * Board ads: * * * * Big Boobs #1 10 meg Ae -No Pw- 224/212/202 catfur...........[713] 729-5100 * * Terrapin Station Ae 300/1200 pw: CICADA idv. soon!.........[505] 865-0883 * * The Arena Ae 20 meg Ae pw: TURKEY 224/212..................[408] 429-8562 * * Binary Sixx Ae 20 meg 1200/202 catfur pw: SIXX.............[505] 275-0110 * * * * All boards are 24 hours * ****************************************************************************** Opening: Greetings! Welcome to my first major production. What the hell is this guy babbling about "black books"? Well, in the 60's a special forces program was developed at the Frankford arsenal to develop and test improvised explosives. What you see here are the results of these tests. Typed directly from Army TM 31-210 and Desert Publication's Black Book Vol. III. Disclaimer: I take absolutely no responsibility for the use of this material, whether it be direct or indirect. What I have done here is simply provide this information for one purpose only (har har) and that is for informational purposes only. All information here, however, should be taken as seriously as the bible. You can very easily fuck up and get killed. Please be very, very careful (shit, i sound like your mother) when dealing with any of the items presented here. Note especially the section on improvised pistols. thanx. and by god... HAVE PHUN! What would you guys like next? (note: the first (good) part of the poor mans james bond is in the works.. I am sick of seeing all of his good book trashed into many files, so I will present it (like this) in volume form..) Poor mans James bond (first section only... its all that is good) Anarchist cookbook (oohhhh nooo...) Principles of Improvised Explosive Devices (a bunch of switches and initiators) FM 5-20 Camouflage Complete guide to lock picking Get Even I and II TM 31-200-1 Unconventional warfare- both of these are about sabotage mainly TM 31-201-1 Unconventional warfare references Grandads Book of Chemistry (are you kidding?) FM 3-50-1 Deliberate Smoke Operations (just for that HS lunchroom...) FM 23-30 Grenades and Pyrotechnics ST 21-75-3 Dismounted Patroling FM 5-15 Field Fortification U.S. Navy Seal Manual- underwater demolitions, etc.. good book. Improvised Munition Systems Special Forces Handbook Special Forces Operational Techniques Anarchist HANDBOOK Weaponeer (another from 'ole Kurt Saxon) Imp. Weapons of Modern Ninja (supposed to be good, its on order..) IMPROVISED MUNITIONS Black Books Vols. I, II, and III "Nothing added, nothing taken away" Typed by The Mad Cracker Plastic Explosive Filler Sec I, No. I A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or any military blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium chlorate Medicine, match heads (white) Petroleum jelly (vaseline) Medicine, Lubricant Round stick Wide bowl or other container for mixing Procedure --------- 1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round stick over crystals to crush into a very fine powder or wheat flower. 2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands until a uniform paste is obtained. Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use. Potassium Nitrate Sec. I, No. 2 Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from .1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitrate bearing earth or other material, Soil containing old decayed about 3.5- gallons (13.5 liters) vegetable or animal matter Old cellars/farm floors, earth from old burial grounds, decayed stone or mortar building foundations. Fine wood ashes, about .5 cup (1/8 liter) totally burned whitish wood ash powder, totally black paper Bucket, about 5 gallons (19 l) in volume 2 pieces finely woven cloth, each slightly bigger than the bottom of the bucket shallow pan or dish, at least as large as the bottom of bucket Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic, metal, etc.) Water- 1.75 gallons (6.75 l) Awl, knife, or screwdriver, or other hole punching tool alcohol - 1 gallon (4 l) can be whiskey, rubbing, etc. heat source paper tape Note: Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much, double all quantities. Procedure --------- 1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes inside bucket. 2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes. 3. Place dirt in bucket. 4. Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks if necessary. 5. Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water goes through all the earth. Allow drained liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours. Note: Do not pour all the water at once, as this may cause stoppage. 6. Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any sludge remaining in bottom of the shallow container. 7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any type of improvised strainer (paper, etc) 8. When liquid has boilded down to approx. half its original volume, remove from fire and let sit. After half an hour, add an equal volume of alcohol. When mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals will collect on top of it. 9. To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the smallest possible amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7); pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces of paper and evaporate of gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness. 10. Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The crystals are now ready to use. Improvised Black Powder Sec. I, No. 3 Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun powder. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium nitrate, granulated 3 cups (.75 l) see Sec. I, No. 2) Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (.5 l) Sulfur, powdered, .5 cup (1/8 l) Alcohol, 5 pints (2.5 l) whiskey, rubbing, etc. water 3 cups, (.75 l) heat source 2 buckets- each 2 gallon (7.5 l) cap., one of which must be heat resistant (metal, ceramic) Flat window screen 1 foot square large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq. Procedure --------- 1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets. 2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cups water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved. 3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form. Note: Do NOT boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it maignite. 4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously. 5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid. 6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen. Note: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6. 7. Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer about .5" (1.25 cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black powder. Note: Remove from here as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now ready for use. Nitric Acid Sec. I, No. 4 Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume) Drug store, improvised, (Sec. I No. 2) Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by vol) motor vehicle batteries, industrial plants 2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks preferable) pot or frying pan Heat source Tape (paper, electrical, not cellophane) Paper or rags Note: If sulfuric acid is obtained from motor vehicles, it must be concentrated by boiling until white fumes appear. Do NOT inhale fumes. Also, the amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate used, so for 2 tablespoons of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoons potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoon sulfuric acid. Procedure --------- 1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill more than 1/4 full Mix until a paste is formed. Note: Treat sulfuric acid like any other acid, wash affected skin with water, and dont inhale the fucking fumes. 2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securly tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces. 3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower than bottle sontaining paste so that nitric acid is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle. 4. Build fire in pot or frying pan. 5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to appear periodically pour cold water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle. Note: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added protection, place bottle to be hated in a heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Hear this outer container to produce nitric acid. 6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6. Note: Do not inhale fumes, and nitric acid should be stored in a sealed glass or ceramic container. Initiator for dust explosions Sec I, No. 5 An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings. Materials Sources --------- ------- a flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and 1-1.5 in. (3-3.75 cm) in height. A 6.5 oz. Tuna can serves the purpose quite well blasting cap explosive aluminum (may be wire, cust sheet, flat can, or powder) large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long wooden rod, .25 in. (6 mm) in diameter flour, gasoline, and powder or chipped aluminum Note: Plastic explosives (comp. C4, etc.) produce larger explosions that cast explosives (comp. B, etc). Procedure --------- 1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2 in. (1-1.5 cm) from the bottom. Using a rotating a lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accomodate the blasting cap. 2. Place the wodden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the center of the can. 3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 in. (2 cm) from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod. 4. Place the aliminum metal on top of the explosive. 5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now ready for use. Note: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material. How to Use ---------- This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2 gallon (1 2/3 l) of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the type of cap used. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building 10x20x10 feet) Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators ad charges. _______________________ | | | flour, gas, etc. | |_______________________| |_______| <- aluminum flake top layer | | | _-_-_| <- explosive here (surrounding cap) |____^__|\\ ^ \\ cap \\ <- wires to cap Fertilizer Explosive Sec. I, No. 6 An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel oil or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When properly prepared, this explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) farm, feed stores Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1) cars, trucks Two flat boards, One which can be comfortably held in the hand, i.e., 2"x4", and 36"x36" Bucket or other container for mixing items Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy walled cardboard tube blasting cap wooden rod, 1/4" in. diameter spoon or similar measuring container Procedure --------- 1. Spread a hadful of the ammonium nitrate (an) on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min. per handful) Note: Continue with step 2 as soon as possible, since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled. 2. Mix on measure (cup, tablespoon, etc) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the finely ground AN in a dry bucket or other suitable container and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not available, use one half measure of motor oil. Store in a waterproof container until ready to use. 3. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has and end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled cardboard tube. Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the explosive. 4. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive. Carbon Tet Explosive Sec. I, No. 7 A moist explosive can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- Fine aluminum bronzing powder paint and artists supplies Carbon tetrachloride Pharmacy, or fire extingusher or liquid tetrachloroethylene dry cleaners stirring rod (wood) Mixing container Measuring container storage container with lid blasting cap pipe, can or jar Procedure --------- 1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene liquid into the mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring with the wooden rod. 2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup. Note: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled. 3. Store explosive in a jar or similar waterproof container until ready to use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not confined. Note: Liquid will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours. How to Use ---------- 1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar. 2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the open end of the explosive will add to the effectiveness of the explosive. Fertilizer AN-AL Explosive Sec. I, No. 8 A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with fine aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm and feed stores 32% nitrogen) fine aluminum bronzing powder paint or artists supply Measuring container Mixing container two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in the had and one very large, i.e., 2"x4" and 36"x36") Storage container Blasting cap Wooden rod- .25 in. in diameter pipe, can or jar Procedure --------- 1. Method I- low velocity explosive A. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container. (ex. 4 cups fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder) B. Mix ingredients with the wooden rod 2. Method II- high velocity explosive A. Spread a handful at a time of AN on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour. (approx. 10 min. per handful) Note: Proceed with step B below as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled. B. Follow steps A and B of Method I. 3. Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as a flass jar, steel pipe, etc., until ready to use. How to Use ---------- Follow steps 1 and 2 of "How to Use" in section I, No. 7. Red or White powder propellant Sec. I, No. 9 Red or White powder propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation described below will result in approx. 2.5 lbs. of powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with .5 in. inside diameter or less, such as the match gun, or the 7.62 carbine, but not pistols. Materials Sources --------- ------- Heat source 2 gallon metal bucket Measuring cup (8 oz) Wooden spoon or rubber spatula metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 sq. in.) flat window screen potassium nitrate (granulated)- 2.33 cups white sugar (granulated)- 2 cups powdered ferric oxide (rust)- 1/8 cup clear water- 3.5 cups Procedure --------- 1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate (pn), and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and PN dissolve. 2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the mixture until it boils gently. Note: The mixture will retain the rust coloration. 3. Stro and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter its original volume, then stir continuously. 4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal (yum!) or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the hear source and spread the mass on the metal sheet. 5. While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in crisscrossedfurrows about 1 inch apart. 6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore it occasionally (about every 20 minutes) to aid drying. 7. When the material has dried to a point to where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the aterial back and forth against the screen mesh with a spoon or other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like particles. 8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely. Nitric Acid/nitrobenzene ("Hellhoffite") explosive Sec. I, No. 10 An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It is a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the nitrobenzene into the acid and stir. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated (specific gravity of 1.48) Mononitrobenzene (nitrobenzene) drug store (oil of mirbane) or chemical supply house Acid resistant measuring containers Glass, clay, etc. Acid resistant stirring rod (glass, etc) Blasting cap Wax steel pipe, end cap, tape bottle or jar Note: Prepare this mixture just before use. Procedure --------- 1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc) of mononitrobenzene to two volumes nitric acid in a bottle or jar. 2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod. Note: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash well with water. Don't inhale the fumes! How to Use ---------- 1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap. 2. Thread end cap onto pipe. 3. Pour mixture into pipe. 4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture. Note: Confining the open end will increase effectiveness of the weapon. Optimized Process for Cellulose/Acid Exposive Sec. I, No. 11 An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cotton cloth. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 cap or any military blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitric acid Industrial metal processors, 90% concentrated (1.48 grvty.) Field grade, (sec. I, No. 4) white unprinted, unsized paper paper towels, napkins clean white cotton cloth clothing, sheets, better kmarts Acid resistant container wax coated pipe or can, ceramic pipe, glass jar, etc. Aluminum foil or acid resistant material food stores protective gloves blasting cap wax Procedure --------- 1. Put on gloves. 2. Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with nitric acid until thoroughly soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use an acid resistant material (glass, ceramic, etc) Note: Use same warning again for handling acid. 3. Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary. 4. Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the roll into the acid resistant container. Note: If glass or ceramic tray is used, pick up with two wooden sticks and load into container. 5. Wax blasting cap. 6. Insert the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min. before detonating the explosive. Methyl Nitrate Dynamite Sec. I, No. 12 A moist explosive mixture can be made from sulfuric acid, nitric acid and methyl alcohol. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Source --------- ------ Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear Nitric Acid Field grade, (sec. I, No. 4), sp. gravity of 1.48 Methyl alcohol methanol, wood alcohol, non- permanant antifreeze eyedropper or styring with glass tube large diameter glass (2 qt.) jar Narrow glass jars (1 qt.) Absorbent (fine sawdust, shredded paper, shredded cloth) cup pan (3-5 gallon) teaspoon wooden stick steel pipe with end cap blasting cap water tray Procedure --------- 1. Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to 16.5 teaspoons of nitric acid in the 2 qt. jar. 2. Place the jar in the pan (3-5 gallon) filled with cold water or in a stream and allow to cool. 3. Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the liquid (without splashing) while keeping the bottom portion of the jar in the water. 4. While continually swirling, add to mixture, .5 teaspoon at a time, 13.5 teaspoons of methyl alcohol, allowing the mixture to cool at least one minute between additions. DANGER! PELIGRO!- If there is a sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced of if the solution turns much darker or begins to froth, dump the solution in the water within 10 seconds! This will help lengthen your life, and prevent an accident. 5. After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 35-40 seconds. 6. Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar to stand in water for approx. 5 minutes until two layers separate. 7. With an eyedropper or styringe, remove top layer and CAREFULLY put into another narrow glass jar. This liquid is the explosve. Note: Thought I should tell you, this is shock sensitive. (very) 8. Add an equal quantity of water to the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture to separate again as in step 6. The explosive is now the bottom layer. 9. Carefully remove the top layer with the eyedropper or styringe and discard. 10. Place one firmly packed cup of absorbent in the tray. 11. While stirring with the wooden stick, slowly add explosive until the mass is very damp but not wet enough to drip. Explosive is ready to use. Note: If it gets too wet, add more absorbent. If storage is required, store in a sealed container to prevent evaporation. Do not allow this to touch the skin. If it does, flush with large quantities of water. Keep grit, dirt, and sand out of the mix. How to Use ---------- 1. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar. 2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surfacr of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the other end will add to the effectivenessof the explosive. Urea nitrate explosive Sec I, No. 13 Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive munition. It is easy to prepare from nitric acid and urine. It can be detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Source --------- ------ Nitric acid, (90%, 1.48 sp. gravity) Field grade (sec. I, No. 4) Urine Animals, yes, humans too 2 one gallon heat and acid resistant containers (pyrex, ceramic) Filtering material paper towel, fine cotton Aluminum powder (optional) paint stores heat source measuring containers (cup and spoon) water tape blasting cap steel pipe and cap Note: Prepare mixture just before use. Procedure --------- 1. Boil a large quantity of urine (10 cups) to approx. 1/10 its volume (1 cup) in one of the containers over the heat source. 2. Filter the urine into the other container through the filtering material to remove impurities. Use tape to secure filter onto jar. 3. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the filtered urine, let stand for 1 hour. 4. Filter mixture as in step 2. Urea nitrate crystals will collect on the paper. 5. Wash the urea nitrate by pouring water over it. 6. Remove urea nitrate crystals from the filtering and allow to dry thoroughly (approx. 16 hours) Note: Drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used. See step 5 of Sec I, No. 15. How to Use ---------- 1. Spoon urea nitrate crystals into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap screwed on one end. 2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the urea nitrate crystals. Note: This explosive can be made more effective by mixing with aluminum powder (from paint stores) in the ratio of 4:1. One cup aluminum powder to four cups urea nitrate. Capping the other end will add to the effectiveness of the explosive. Preparation of Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate) Sec. I, No. 14 Copper sulfate is a required material for the preparation of TACC. See section I, No. 16) Materials Sources --------- ------- Pieces of copper or copper wire circuit boards, electronic stores Dilute sulfuric acid (battery acid) Potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) or Nitric Acid, (90%, 1.48 gr.)(Sec. I, No. 4) Alcohol water two 1 pint jars or glasses, heat resistant paper towels pan wooden stick or rod improvised scale cup container heat source teaspoon Procedure --------- 1. Place 10 grams of copper pieces into one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup (240 ml) of dilute sulfuric acid to the copper. 2. Add 12 grams of potassium nitrate or 1.5 teaspoons of nitric acid to the mixture. Note: Nitric Acid gives a product of greater purity. 3. Heat the mixture in a pan of simmering hot water hath until the bubbling has ceased (approx. 2 hours). The mixture will turn to a blue color. 4. Pour the hot blue solution, but not the copper, into the other pint jar. Allow solution to cool at room temperature. Discard the unreacted copper pieces in the first jar. 5. Carefully pour away the liquid from the crystals. Crush crystals into a powder with a wooden rod or stick. 6. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of alcohol to the powder while stirring. 7. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container to collect the crystals. Wash the crystals left on the paper towel three times, using .5 cup (120 ml) portions of alcohol each time. 8. Air dry the copper sulfate crystals for 2 hours. Note: Drying time can be reduced to .5 hour by use of hot, not boiling, water bath (see step 3). Reclamation of RDX from C4 Sec. I, No. 15 Rdx can be obtained from C4 explosive with the sue of gasoline. It can be used as a booster explosive for detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13) or as a high explosive charge. Materials Sources --------- ------- Gasoline C4 plastique 2 pint glass jars, wide mouth water --------| | ceramic or glass dish | | pan | optional, it may be air | dried heat source | | teaspoon | | cup | | tape --------| Procedure --------- 1. Place 1.5 teaspoons (15 grams) of C4 in one of the pint jars. Add one cup (240 ml) of gasoline. Note: These quantities can be increased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2 gallons of gasoline per 1 cup of C4. 2. Knead and stir the C4 with the rod until the C4 has broken down into small particles. Allow mixture to stand for .5 hour. 3. Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of the jar. 4. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash the particles collected on the paper twoel with .5 cup (120 ml) of gasoline. Discard the waste liquid. 5. Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic disk. Set the dish in a pan of hot water, not boiling, and dry for a period of 1 hour. Note: RDX can be air dried for 2 to 3 hours. TACC (Tetramminecopper (II) Chlorate Sec. I, No. 16 TACC is a primary explosive that can be made from sodium chlorate, copper sulfate and ammonia. This eplosive is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). Materials Sources --------- ------- Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23, medicine Copper sulfate Weed killer, hardware store, Sec. I, No. 14 Ammonia hydroxide household ammonia, smelling salts, water purifier alcohol, 95% wax, clay, pitch, etc. water bottle, narrow mouth (wine or coke) bottles, wide mouth (mason jars) tubing (copper, steel) to fit around mouth bottle teaspoon improvised scale Sec, VII, No. 8 heat source paper towel pan tape cup Procedure --------- 1. Measure 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sodium chlorate into a wide mouth bottle. Add 10 teaspoons alcohol. 2. Place the wide mouth bottle in a pan of hot water. Add 1 teaspoon (4 g) of copper sulfate to the mixture. Heat for a period of 30 minutes just under the boiling point and stir occasionally. Note: Keep away from flame. Keep volume constant by adding additional alcohol approx. every 10 minutes. 3. Remove solution from pan and allow to cool. Color of solution will change from a blue to a light green. Filter solution through a paper towel into another wide mouth bottle. Store until ready for step 6. 4. Add 1 cup (250 Ml) of ammonia to the narrow mouth bottle. 5. Place tubing into neck of bottle so that it extends about 1.5 in (4 cm) inside bottle. Seal tubing to bottle with wax, clay, pitch, etc. 6. Place free end of tubing into the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution (step 3). Heat bottle containing ammonia in a pan of hot, but not boiling water, for approx. 10 minutes. 7. Bubble ammonia gas through the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution approx. 10 minutes, until the color changes from light gree to dark blue. COntinue bubbling for another 10 minutes. Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from flame. 8. Remove the solution from the pan and reduce the volume to about 1/3 of its original volume by evaporating in the open air or ina stream of air. Note: Pour container into a flat container for faster evaporation. 9. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a wide mouth bottle to collect crystals. Wash crystals with 1 teaspoon of alcohol and set aside to dry (approx. 16 hours) Drying time can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot, not boiling, water bath is used. Note: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store in a capped container. HMTD Sec I, No. 17 HMTF is a primary explosive that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine, hydrogen peroxide, and citric acid. This explosive is to be used with a boosterr explosive such as picric acid (Sec I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) in the fabrication of detonators (Sec VI, No. 13). Materials Sources --------- ------- Hexamethylenetetramine Drugstore under names of urotropine, hexamine, methenamine, etc. Army heat tablets (sterno?) Hydrogen Peroxide 6% hair bleach or stronger Citric Acid Drug or Food stores, known as "sour salt" Containers, bottles or glasses paper towels teaspoon pan water tape Procedure --------- 1. Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a container 2. In 3 portions, dissolve 2.5 teaspoons of crushed hexamethylenetetramine (hexa) in the peroxide. 3. Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes by placing container in a pan of cold water. 4. In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons of crushed citric acid in the hexa- peroxide solution. 5. Permite solution to stand at room temperatire until solid particles for at the bottom of the container. Note: Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours 6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the solid particles. 7. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons of water by pouring the water over them. Discard the liquid in the container. 8. Place these explosives in a container and allow to dry. Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep from open sparks or flames. Store in a cool, dry place. Potassium or Sodium Nitrite and Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18 Potassium or sodium nitrate is needed to prepare DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19) and litharge is required for the preparation of lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20) Materials Sources --------- ------- Lead metal (small pieces or chips) Plumbing supply Potassium or sodium nitrite Field grade (Sec. I, No. 2) or drug store Methyl (wood) alcohol Iron pipe with end cap Iron rod or screwdriver Paper towels 2 glass jars, wide mouth metal pan heat source (hot coals or blow torch) improvised scale (Sec VII, No. 8) cup water pan Procedure --------- 1. Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or sodium nitrite in a jar. Place the mixture in the iron pipe. 2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or with a blow torch for 30 minutes to one hour. (mixture will turn yellow) 3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and allow to cool. Chip out the yellow material formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in the glass jar. 4. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of methyl alcohol to the chips. 5. Heat the glass jar containing the mixture in a hot water bath for approx. 2 minutes. Heat until there is a noticeable reaction between chips and alcohol; solution will turn darker. 6. Filter themixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. The material left of the paper towel is lead monoxide. 7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using .5 cup of hot water each time. Air dry before using. 8. Place the jar with the liquid (step 6) in a hot water bath (as in step 5) and heat until the alcohol is evaporated. The powder remaining in the jar after evaporation is potassium or sodium nitrite. Note: Nitrite has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere and should be stored in a closed container. DDNP Sec. I, No. 19 DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. I, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15). Materials Sources --------- ------- Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21 Flowers of sulfur drug store lye (sodium hydroxide) Red devil(tm) sink unstopper sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries Potassium or sodium nitrite Sec. I, No. 18 Water 2 glass cups, pyrex stirring rod (glass or wood) Improvised scale Sec VII, No. 8 teaspoon tablespoon eyedropper heat source containers tape Procedure --------- 1. In one of the glass cups, mix .5 gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30ml) of warm water. 2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the water-lye mixture. Store until ready for step 5. 3. Place .25 teaspoon (1ml) of water in the other glass cup. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 g) of lye to the water. 4. Boil solution over heat source until color turns dark red. Remove and allow solution to cool. 5. In three portions, add this sulfur-lye solution to the picric acid-lye solution (step 2); stir while pouring. Allow mixture to cool. 6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container. Small red particles will collect on the paper. Discard the liquid in the container. 7. Dissolve the red particles in .25 cup (60 ml) of boiling water. 8. Remove and filter the mixture through a paper towel, as in step 6. Discard the particles left on the paper. 9. Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution until it turns orange-brown. 10. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 g) more sulfuric acid to the solution. Allow the solution to cool to room temperature. 11. In a separate container, dissolve .25 teapsoon (1.8 g) of potassium or sodium nitrite in 1/3 cup (80 ml) of water. 12. Add this solution in one portion, while stirring, to the orange-brown solution. Allow the mixture to stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will turn light brown. Note: Mixture is now primary explosive. Keep from sparks and flames. 13. Filter the mixture through a paper towel. Wash the particles left on the paper with 4 teaspoons (20 ml) of water. 14. Allow paricles to dry, approx. 16 hours. Drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used. See Sec. I, No. 16. Note: Explosive is flame and shock sensitive. Store in a capped container. Preparation of lead picrate Sec. I, No. 20 Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster exlosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, NO. 15). Materials Sources --------- ------- Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18 or plumbing store Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21 Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint remove, some antifreezes wooden or plastic rod dish or saucer (china or glass) teaspoon improvised scale Sec. VII, No. 8 containers Flat pan Heat source (Optional) Water (optional) Procedure --------- 1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a separate container. 2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of the alcohol in a dish. Add the picric acid to the alcohol and stir with the wooden or plastic rod. 3. Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring. Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from spark or flame. 4. Continue stirring the mixture until the alcohol has evaporated. The mixture will suddenly thicken. 5. Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from forming) until a powder is formed. A few lumps will remain. Note: Be very careful of dry material forming one the inside of the container. 6. Spread this powdered mixture, the lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry. Note: If possible, dry the mixture in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a period of two hours. Preparation of Picric Acid from asprin Sec. I, No. 21 Picric acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13), a high explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20) or DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19) Materials Sources --------- ------- Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet) drugstore, kmart alcohol, 95% pure Sulfuric acid, concentrated (boil until white fumes appear) potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) Water paper towels cleaning jar, 1 pint rod (glass or wood) glass containers ceramic or glass dish cup teaspoon tablespoon pan heat source tape Procedure --------- 1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and work into a paste. 2. Add approx. 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 ml) to the aspirin paste; stir while pouring. 3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another glass container. Discard the solid left on the paper towel. 4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass dish. 5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after evaporation. Note: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approx. 160 degrees to 180 degrees F. It should not burn the hands. 6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 ml) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric acid. 7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for 15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-orange color. 8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 g) of potassium nitrate in three portions to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange color. 9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient or room temperature while stirring occasionally. 10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1.25 cup (300 ml) of cold water and allow to cool. 11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light yellow particles will collect on the paper towel. 12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 ml) of water. Discard the waste liquid in the container. 13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as it step 5, for 2 hours. Double Salts Sec. I, No. 22 Double salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It can be made in the field from silver (coins), nitric acid, calcium carbide, and water. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitric acid (90%) Sec. I, No. 4 Silver metal (silver coin, 5/8 in. in diameter) Calcium carbide (acetylele or calcium carbide lamps) rubber and glass tubing (approx. 1/4 in. inside diameter) paper towels heat resistant bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 qt. capacity, and one cork to fit. (Punch hole in cork to fir tubing) teaspoon *aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated) or equivalent measure glass container heat source long narrow jar (olive jar) tape water alcohol Procedure --------- 1. Dilute 2/25 teaspoons of nitric acid with 1.5 teaspoons of water in a glass container by adding the acid to the water. 2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The solution will turn to a green color. Note: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the silver coin. Take the usual precautions when working with acid! 3. Pour solution into a long narrow (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of hot water. Crystals will form in the solution; heat until crystals dissolve. 4. While still heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons of calcium carbide in another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water. After the reaction has started add another teaspoon of water. Then set up as shown. ---------------------------------------------------- <- rubber //--------------------------------------------------\\ tubing glass ||<-tubing continues into jar (olive) || tubing>>||___ __||__ | | | | | || |<-cork | |olive | | ______|| || ||______ | | jar | | | || | | | w/ | | | || | | |silver| | | || | | | mix _______|____ acetylene bubbles glass tubing>|| | | | / | | | || | | |______| <-water here (hot) | || | |__________________| |calcium carbide & | | water | Heat source here |____________________| 5. Bubble acetylene through the solution for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor will be given off and white flakes will appear in the silver solution. 6. Remove the solver solution from the heat source and allow it to cool. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Green crystals will collect on the paper. 7. Wash the solids collected on the paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol. The solid material will turn white while the solvent in the container will have a green color. 8. Place the white solid material on a clean paper towel to air dry. Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep from sparks or flame. Store in a cool, dry place. Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23 Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives. it can be used in place of potassium chlorate (see Sec. I, No. I). Materials Sources --------- ------- 2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter x dry cell batteries (2.5 in. 5 in. long) diameter x 7 in. long) or plumbing supply store salt, or ocean water grocery store or ocean sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries motor vehicle water 2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.) 6 ft. long, insulated gasoline 1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter x 6 in. high, approx.) sticks string teaspoon trays cup heavy cloth knife large flat pan or tray Procedure --------- 1. Mix .5 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 qts) of water. 2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously for 5 minutes. 3. Strip back about 4 in. of insulation from both end of the two wires. 4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of wood 1 x 1/8 x 1.5. Tie the wood strips to the lead or carbon rods so that they are 1.5 inches apart. ___________ ___________ | | | | |\ | | /| | \ | | / | | \--|==========================|--/ | | /--|==========================|--\ | | / | ^ | \ | |/ | ^ | \| | | ^ | | |\ | wood sticks | / | | \ | | / | | \ |==========================| | | |==========================| | | | | | | | <--1.5 in. apart --> | | |_________| |_________| 5. Connect the rods to the battery in the motor vehicle with the insulated wire. 6. Submerge 4.5 in. of the rods into the salt water solution. 7. With gear in neutral position start the vehicles engine. Depress the accelerator approx. 1/5 of its full travel. 8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this postition for 2 hours; then; shut it down for 2 hours. 9. Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of the acid-salt water solution in the glass jar. Note: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous to personnel. Do not touch the bare wire leads while the engine is running. 10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect wire leads from the battery. 11. Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the glass jar. 12. Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature (approx. 16 hours). The residuew is approx 60% or more sodium chlorate which is pure enough to be used as an explosive ingredient. Mercury Fulminate Sec. I, No. 24 Mercury fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15). Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitric Acid (90%) 1.48 gr. field grade (Sec. I, No. 4) or industrial metal processors mercury thermometers, old radio tubes ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%) filtering material teaspoon measure (.25, .5, and 1 teaspoon capacity) aluminum, stainless steel, or wax coated heat source clean wooden stick clean water glass containers tape styringe Procedure --------- 1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2.5 teaspoons of clean water in a glass container by adding the acid to the water. 2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will yield dark red fumes. Note: It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the mercury-acid solution in order to start reaction. Also take usual precautions when handling acid. 3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol feels warm to the inside of the wrist. 4. Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start in less than 5 minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off during reaction. As time lapses, the fumes will become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to complete reaction. Fulminate will settle to bottom. Note: This reaction generates large quantities of toxic, flammable fumes. The process must be conducted outdoors or in a well ventilated area, away from sparks or flames. Do not inhlale fumes unless you like death. 5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container. Crystals may stick to the side of the container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the sides of the container until all the material collects on the filter paper. 6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl alcohol. 7. Allow these to dry. Note: Handle dry explosives with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool dry place. Sodium Chlorate and sugar or aluminum explosive Sec. I, No. 25 An explosive munition can be made from sodium chlorate combined with granular sugar, or aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or Military J2 blasting cap. Materials Sources --------- ------- sodium chlorate Sec. I, No. 23 granular sugar food store aluminum powder paint store wooden rod or stick bottle or jar blasting cap steel pipe (threaded on one end) end cap and tape measuring container Procedure --------- 1. Add three volumes (cups, quarts, etc) sodium chlorate to one volume aluminum powder, or two volumes of granular sugar, in bottle or jar. 2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with the wooden rod or stick. How to Use ---------- 1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap. 2. Thread end cap onto pipe. 3. Pour munition into pipe. 4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture. Note: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the explosive. Acetone/Peroxide Explosive Sec. I, No. 26 Materials Sources --------- ------- Hydrogen Peroxide Drug store, Hair Bleach Acetone Hardware, drup stores Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear Eye dropper or styringe with glass tube Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other measuring device Thermometer (0-100 C) Glass containers Large pan Ice and salt Water Paper towels Procedure --------- 1. Measure 30 ml of acetone and 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly. 2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its container in a larger one containing a mixture of ice, salt and water. Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in the larger outer container, it is necessary to secure it so that it will not fall over into the ice, salt, and water mixture. 3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C. 4. Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture slowly. drop by drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture during the addition of the sulfuric acid with a thermometer, keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C., stop adding the sulfuric acid and continue stirring until the temp. drops again to 5 degrees C., then continue adding the sulfuric acid. __ | |<-eye dropper w/ concentrated sulfuric acid |__| \ \ | <- thermometer | \ \ | | | \ \ | | | \-\ | | | | | | | acetone/peroxide mix -----|-> | | | | | | <-|---ice, salt, and water mix. | \-------/ | maintain 5-10 degrees C. ------------------------- 5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture for another five minutes. 6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/water/salt bath or remove the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12-24 hours. 7. After 12 hours, white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hrs. Note: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from shock, friction and flame. 8. Filter the mixture through a paper twoel into a container to collect all of the solid particles. 9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts of ice cold water poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container. 10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry. Note: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry place. How to Use ---------- Acetone peroxide is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main filler when making homeade detonators. Using 2.5" lengths of brass or copper tubing with one end sealed shit with either solder or epoxy resin, begin by partiallly filling the tube with acetone perroxide and compressing with a loading press (Sec. VI, No. 13, Vol. 2 and Sec. II, No. 12, Vol 3). Continue This process until the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Cap the open end tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper and insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube insert into the main charge to a depth of 2". The caps will detonate most of the explosives shown in this volume. Note: These detonators should be used withing 7 days of thier manufacture and should be stored in a cool, dry place. Bullseye (low-high) Explosive Sec. I, No. 27 A highly effective and powerful low - high explosive can be obtained by simply using a fast burning double-based, smokeless pistol powder called Bullseye. This propellant is used to reload pistol and revolver cartridges and contains a sensitive mixture of nitroglycerin and nitrocellulose. Materials Sources --------- ------- Bullseye smokeless pistol powder Gun and reloading stores Compound detonator or time fuse Five finger discount at many fine National Guard bases How to Use ---------- 1. To use as a low explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end caps and ignite with a time fuse. When ignited, the pipe will explode into many fragments traveling at a velocity of approximately 600 fps. 2. To use as a high explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end caps, insert a compound detonator with a fuzing mechanism and detonate. When detonated, the pipe will fragment into many small fragments traveling at a velocity in excess of 20,000 fps. Note: Because of the unique mixture of nitroglycering with nitrocellulose (double-base), Bullseye is one of the few propellants that can be detonated with a blasting cap. When detonated, it is a powerful as military TNT and should be used to defeat hard targets. HTH/Naptha Explosive Sec. I, No. 28 An explosive munition can be made from granular calcium hypoclorite (HTH, swimming pool bleach) and petroleum naptha. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator. Materials Sources --------- ------- Granular calcium hypoclorite 70%, HTH Bleaching agent, swimming pool swimming pool purifier. supply houses, better K-marts. Benzine (petroleum naptha) Hardware and paint stores, paint thinner, cleaning fluid. Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc) Stirring rod (Wood) Measuring container (cup, tablespoon) Storage container (jar, can) with tight lid Blasting cap, compound detonator required Strong pipe with end caps Procedure --------- 1. Measure out 32 parts by volume, 27 parts by weight, of calcium hypoclorite (CH) to 1 part by volume, 1 part by weight, of petroleum naptha into the mixing container. 2. Stir until thoroughly mixed with wooden stirring rod. How to Use ---------- 1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation bombs. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. 2. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse. Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If the mixture becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to detonate the explosive. Store in tightly sealed container. Potassium Permangante/Aluminum Explosive Sec. I, No. 29 An explosive munition can be made from potassium permanganate and aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium permanganate chemical and photography stores fine aluminum bronzing powder paint stores measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.) storage container with tight lid two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in the had such as a square block or rolling pin and one very large, ie., 36" x 36" blasting cap, compound detonator required strong pipe with end caps Procedure --------- 1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium permanganate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pic until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful) 2. Measure 2 volumes (cups, tablespooons, etc.), 60% by weight, of potassium permanganate with three volumes, 40% by weight, of fine aluminum bronzing powder into a mixing container with a tight fitting lid. 3. Secure the lid tightly and shake the mixture for approx. five minutes to mix thoroughly. 4. Store the explosive in the mixing container until ready to use. Before using, shake the contents once again to remix any settled particles. How to Use ---------- 1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation bombs. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. 2. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse. Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive Sec. I, No. 30 An impact sensitive explosive can be made from potassium chlorate and sulfur. This explosive can be used as a filler when making reusable primers (Sec. III, No. 5, Vol. 1) or as a fill when making impact sensitive fragmentation bombs. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium chlorate Drug stores, chemical supply houses Sulfur Drug Stores Measuring container Mixing container Two flat boards (same as No. 29) Procedure --------- 1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful). Note: Clean and dry both boards before using again with a different substance. 2. Repeat this process using the sulfur. 3. Measure 7 parts by volume, 11 parts by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part by volume, 1 part by weight of powdered sulfur into the mixing container. Note: This mixture forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive, especially between two metal surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised from this point on. 4. Gently tumble the mixing container between the hands until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed together. 5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly sealed storage container until ready to use. Note: Do not store the mixed explosive for more than five days before using. KEEP THIS EXPLOSIVE DRY AT ALL TIMES. How to Use ---------- 1. This explosive can either be used to either fill primer caps (Sec. III, No. 5, Vol. 1), reloading ammunition, or it can be used to make the following palm sized fragmentation bombs: A. Obtain a short section of threaded water pipe with two end caps. B. Thread on end cap onto the pipe and fill 1/4 full with steel ball bearings. C. Fill the remaining space with potassium chlorate/sulfur mixture and screw the remaining end cap on. /*_*_*_*_*_*\ <-threaded end cap |_---------_| |--O-O--| actual water pipe -> |-----O-| "O's" represent ball bearings _|-O-----|_ "-'s" represent the mixture |_-_-_O_-_-_| \***********/ <-threaded end cap Note: Maintain a loose mixture between the ball bearings and explosive by not over tamping the explosive into the pipe. This will allow the ball bearings to move and impact together. D. Gently tumble the pipe between the hands to mix the ball bearings with the explosive. E. When ready to use, throw against or near the target area. Potassium chlorate/Kerosene explosive Sec. I, No. 31 An effectove explosive munition can be made by simply pouring kerosene into powdered potassium chlorate. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator. Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium chlorate Drug, chemical supply stores Kerosene Hardware stores Measuring container Mixing container Stirring rod Storage container with tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Compound detonator Procedure --------- 1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per handful) 2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume, 10% by weight, of kerosene into 9 parts by volume, 90% by weight, of potassium chlorate. Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed conatainer until ready to use. 3. Another method in producing the explosive is to lightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered potassium chlorate. When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of kerosene into the potassium chlorate and allow to soak in for five minutes before using. How to use ---------- 1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel fragmentation bombs and light blasting operations. 2. to use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. Note: Store mixed explosive in mixing container or load into pipe. 3. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse. 4. The pipe can be pre-filled with potassium chlorate and when ready to use, simply pour in the kerosene, allow to soak for five minutes, then detonate. Potassium chlorate/Notrobenzene Explosive Sec. I, No. 32 A moise explosive can be made from solid potassium chlorate and liquid nitrobenzene. This explosive has medium to high power and brisance. It can be used as a substitute for 50% ditching dynamite or flake TNT. This exlosive can be readily detonated by a standard blasting cap (No. 6). Materials Sources --------- ------- Potassium chlorate Drug and chemical supply stores Nitrobenzene Drug stores (oil of mirbane), chemical supply houses Measuring container Mixing container Storage container with tight lid Two flat boards (from No. 31) Blasting cap (No. 6) Procedure --------- 1. Use step one from No. 31 to pulverize the potassium chlorate. Note: Nitrobenzene is extremely toxic and should be handled in well ventilated areas. Harmful effects may result from swallowing, inhalation of vapors, or contact with the skin or eyes. In case of accidental spilling, wash the addected area immediately with large quantities of water. 2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume, 20% by weight of nitrobenzene into 4 parts by volume, 80% by weight, of powdered potassium chlorate. Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container wintil ready for use. 3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered potassium chlorate. When ready for use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of nitrobenzene into the potassium chlorate and allow to soak for 3 to 3 minutes before using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitrobenzene into the potassium chlorate is to not allow the potassium chlorate to be disturbed after it has been soaked with nitrobenzene. Whenever a liquid is poured into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a direct overall effect on the explosive performance, it is important to first pre-pack a rigid container with the potassium chlorate and then pour in the nitrobenzene and allow it to soak in without stirring. This will produce a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low performance exlosive. How to Use ---------- 1. This mixture forms a very powerful explosive that can be used for general purpose blasting and ditching operations. It is extremely sensitive to detonation and can be initiated by simple homemade detonators. Nitromethane/Sawdust explosive Sec. I, No. 33 A simple nitromethane based explosive can be made by simply pouring nitromethane into a container filled with screened sawdust. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitromethane Chemical supply houses, hobby shops (fuel for r/c cars) Sawdust (fine) Common window screen Measuring container Mixing container Storage container Compound detonator Procedure --------- 1. Using a common window screen as a sieve, place a handful of sawdust in the center and shake between the hands in a back and forth motion. Collect the sawdust that passes through and discard the rest. (do not force big pieces through the screen) 2. Measure out 2 parts by volume, 20% by weight, of screened sawdust into a mixing container. Pour in 1 part by volume, 80% by weight, of liquid nitromethane. Stir until completely mixed. 3. Store in a sealed container until ready to use. How to Use ---------- 1. This mixture forms a medium power/brisant high explosive which should be used under strong confinement and as a filler for fragmentation bombs and light blasting operations. 2. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. 3. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse. 4. The pipe can be pre-filled with sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour in the nitromethane, then detonate. Nitromethane/Ammonium Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34 A moist explosve can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid nitromethane. This explosive has both high power and high brisance and can be used as a direct substitute for TNT. This explosive can be readily detonated by a blasting cap, No. 6 in strength. A compound detonator is not required. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store, or chemical 32% nitrogen) or pure supply house Nitromethane Hobby stores, chemical supply house measuring container mixing container storage container w/ tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Blasting cap (No. 6) Procedure --------- 1. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and rub vigirously with the other board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 minutes per handful) Note: Proceed with steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder may moisture from the air and become spoiled. 2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume or 2 parts by weight of nitromethane into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by weight of powdered ammonium nitrate. Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container until ready to use. 3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered ammonium nitrate. When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of nitromethane into the ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to 5 minutes before using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitromethane into the ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium nitrate to be disturbed after it has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever a liquid is poured into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a direct overall effect of the explosive performance, it is important to first pre-pack a rigid container with ammonium nitrate and then pour in the nitromethane and allow to soak without stirring. This will produce a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low performance explosive. How to Use ---------- 1. This explosive is one of the most powerful/brisant two component explosives readily available. Each component is perfectly safe to handle by itself. However, when the two are mixed together, they form a sensitive high explosive that can be detonated with a standard blasting cap. 2. This explosive mixture should be used to defeat hard targets, such as steel and reinforced concrete. It can also be used with special charges that require high brisance, i.e., shaped charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges. Nitromethane Liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 35 A liquid explosive, that resembles water in appearance, can be made from nitromethane and aqueous ammonia (household glass cleaner). This exposive is 22 to 24 more powerful that military TNT and can be detonated with a standard blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity, a compound detonator should be used. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store (racing fuel) Aniline, ethylenediamine, aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical (non-detergent) supply, grocery store measuring container (cup, pint, etc.) blasting cap or compound detonator Procedure --------- Note: Nitromethane is a common chemical reagent, and under normal conditions cannot be made to detonate even if a strong detonator is used. However, if certain ammonia-containing compounds (called sensitizers) are alled in small percentages (5-6 %), then the sensitized nitromethane can be detonated with a standard #8 blasting cap. The most effective sensitizers are aniline and ethylenediamine. The most readily available sensitizer is common household glass cleaner (aqueous ammonia). 1. To produce the explosive, simply pour the sensitizer into the nitromethane and mix thoroughly. One-half pic sensitizer will sensitize one gallon of nitromethane. 2. The explosive can be premixed, or for safety's sake, it can be mixed just prior to use by prefilling a charge container with nitromethane and then adding the sensitizer when ready to detonate. How to Use ---------- 1. This liquid explosive can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be used for disguiseability. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers, i.e., shape charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges, without special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required for solid explosives to be effective. 2. To obtain the maximum efficiency, a compound detonator should be used for initiation. Reliability of initiation is increased by positioning and immersing the detonator centrally with respect to the wall of the container. By centrally positioning and immersing the detonator in the liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted to the explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall of the container. do dont "-" = cap | - | -| | | - | -| | | - | -| | +++++++ +++++++ Fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36 A liquid explosive can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid anhydrous hydrazine. This liquid explosive is more powerful and brisant than C4 plastic explosive and can be used as a direct replacement for C4. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity a compound detonator should be used. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or 32% nitrogen) chemical supply store anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply house large mixing container glass stirring rod storage container blasting cap, compound detonator Procedure --------- Note: Anhydrous hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable. Keep away from spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled in well ventilated areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large quantities of water. 1. Pour into the mixing container an amount of anhydrous hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required. 2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled or powdered) is then added, a teaspoon at a time, to the hydrazine in the mixing container. Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x the volume of the hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the ammonium nitrate and the hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily bubble over the top. 3. Because of the effervescent reaction, the ammonium nitrate should be added very slowly so as not to create accidental over-flowing. With each addition of ammonium nitrate, the person doing the mixing should wait for the initial reaction to subside, then stir the solution until all of the ammonium nitrate dissolves into it. Note: The reaction between the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large volumes of poisonous gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the mixing process so as not to breath the poisonous fumes. 4. The mixing process is continued until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the solution, even after five minutes of stirring, and a small amount reamains undissolved at the bottom of the mixing container. This undissolved ammonium nitrate does not affect the performance of the explosive. 5. After the mixing process is complete, what will remain will be a clear liquid explosive more powerful and brisant that any military explosive. Note: The mixed explosive has a lower toxicity of the hydrazine. However, it is recommended that the same handling precautions be observed. 6. To make an even more powerful explosive, 20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or finer) can be added to the ammonium nitrate before mixing with the hydrazine (it does not react with the other two ingredients), or ir can be added after the mixing process is complete. How to Use ---------- 1. This explosive is the most powerful/brisant of the two complement explosive systems available. It can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be used for disguiseability. 2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers, i.e., shape, platter and SCIMP charges, without special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required by solid explosives to be effective. 3. It has unique absorption and retention poperties which can be used to create a liquid land mine. The liquid explosive can be poured directly into the ground, soaking into and blending with the surrounding earth. The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional electrically or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives have remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather. /----wet explosive in ground. ____________ / ____________ \ \_/ | | | | |___| | | | | | | | | stake trip wire | | | |----------------------------------------------/\ | | | / \------------- knot Mortar Scrap mine Sec. II, No. 5 A directional mine that can be placed in the path of advancing troops. Materials Sources --------- ------- Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard, steel company in. in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery case one end Threaded cap to fit pipe black powder or salvaged artillery powder (.5 lb total) Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or improvised ignitor from Sec. VI, No. 1. Safety or improvised fuse may also be used Small stones, about 1 in. in diameter or small size scap; about 1 lb. total rags for wadding, each 20 in. x 20 in. paper or bag battery and wire stick (non-metallic) Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws Procedure --------- 1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe. 2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with string so contents will not fall out. 3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests against threaded cap leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe. 4. Roll rag until it is about 6 in. long and the same diameter as pipe. Insert rag wadding against packaged propellant ignitor. With caution, pack tightly using stick. 5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe. 6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap. pack tightly as before. explosive stones/scrap firing leads rags rags ------------------------------------------------ |XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\ |XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\ ------------------------------------------------ \\ \\ How to Use ---------- 1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy. The open end may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dist or leaves as camoflage. 2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired when needed or attached to a trip device placed in path of advancing troops. Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition system can be substituted for the electrical system as follows: 1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter. 2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire. Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2 This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if placed on the engine or engine compartment. Materials --------- Glass coke bottle 6.5 oz. size plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb. blasting cap metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside diameter (should be heavy walled for best results) plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.) Non-metal rod about .25 in. in diameter and 8 in. or more in length tape or string 2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (see Sec. II, No. 3) Procedure --------- 1. Place plug in mouth of bottle. 2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cyliner rests of widest part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of bottle. 3. If plastic explosive is used: A. Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until cylinder is full. B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the exlosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap. 4. If castable explosive is use, follow procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, a thru f. How to Use ---------- Method 1. If electrical cap is used. 1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to detonate the charge. 2. Place bottom of coke bottle flush against the target. If target is not flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any conveneint means, such as by placing tape or string around target and top of bottle. Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off. Note: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is nothing between the target and the base of the bottle. 3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit. Method II. If non-electrical cap is used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow a safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I. 3. Light fuse when ready to fire. Cyndrilical Cavity shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7 A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of steel, producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter. Materials --------- Ir on or steel pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long. Metal pipe, .5 to .75 in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends. Pipe should be as thin as possible. Blasting cap Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter Plastic or castable explosive 2 metal cans of different sizes ------| | stick or wire | only if castable explosive is used | heat source ------| Procedure --------- 1. If plastic explosive us used: A. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and tamp explosive into pipe. Leave approx. .25 in. space at the top. B. Place rod in center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to diameter and length of small pipe. C. Insert small pipe into hole. Note: Make sure that there is direct contact between the explosive and the small pipe. Hand pack if necessary. D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty space aboce small pipe. Remove pipe if necessary. E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the whole object) and pus rod .5 in. into center of opposite end of explosive to form a hole for the blasting cap. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to fire shaped charge. 2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used: A. Follow procedure, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, Parts A, B, C, including Notes. B. When all explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. C. Place large pipe of flat surface. Pour explosive into pipe until it is 1.75 in. from the top. D. Place small pipe in the center of large pipe so that it rests on top of exlosive. Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around small pipe until explosive is .25 in. from top of large pipe. E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge during cooling with a wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this as often as necessary until explosive is .25 in. from top. F. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge about .50 in. deep. How to Use ---------- Method I. If an electrical cap is used. 1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use. 2. Place other end of pipe flush against target. Fasten pipe to target by any convenient means, such as by placing tape or string around target and on top of pipe. If target is not flat and horizontal. Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is nothing between the charge and the base of the pipe. 3. Connect leads from cap to firing circuit. Method II. If non-electrical cap is used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure that there is enough fuse to allow safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method I. 3. Light fuse when ready to fire. Funnel shaped charge Sec. II, No. 9 An effective shaped charge can be made using various commercial funnels. See table for penetration capabilities. Materials --------- Container (sode or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long Funnels (glass, steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter Wooden rod or stick, .25 in. in diameter tape blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical) sharp cutting edge explosive Procedure --------- 1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard. 2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s). Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels together as tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels together at the outer ridges. 3. Place the funnels in the modified can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels to can. 4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3. 5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than the standoff length. (see table) Position three of there rods around the explosive filled can and hold in place with tape. Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff dimensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table. ________________ _ | | | | <-|----explosive 3| --| |-- i| - | /\ | - rods (legs) held on with tape n| - | / \ | - | - | / funnel \ | - - - |/____________\| - - - - - | - - - - - - - ^ |>standoff Table Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff (ins.) | Penetration | ------------------------------------------------------------------ | | | | | | glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- 6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod or stick. Note: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is ready to use. How to Use ---------- 1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough to provide safe delay. 2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target so that nothing is between the base of charge and target. 3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit. Linear shaped Charge Sec. II, No. 10 This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through nearly 3 inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see table) Materials --------- Standard structural angle or pipe (see table) wood or cardboard container hacksaw -----| | only is pipe is used vise -----| wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter explosive blasting cap tape Table | Type | material | liner size | Standoff | Penetration| ------------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| | angle | steel | 3x3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in | | | | .25 in web | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| | angle | aluminum | 2x2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. | | | | 3/16 web | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| | pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. | | section | | | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| |pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. | |section | | | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| Procedure --------- Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to be more efficient than the ribbon charge. Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just place on target. 1. If pipe is used: A. Place the pipe in the vise and cut pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the pipe half sections from the vise. B. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge. 2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface. 3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide as the angle or pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the desired cut to be made with the charge. 4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner to container. 5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive ising small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3. 6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length (see table). Postition the rods at the corners of the explosive filled container and hold in place with tape. Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff and penetration dimensions given in the table. 7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side od the container .5 in. above the liner and centered with the wooden rod. Note: Do not place blasting cap inside Linear Shaped Charge until ready to detonate. How to Use ---------- 1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the container. If non-electric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough. 2. Place (tape if necessary) the LSC on the target so that nothing is between base of charge and target. 3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit. Soap Dish charges Sec. II, No. 11 Using common plastic soap dishes, two special charges can be prepared. One is a miniature claymore mine, and the other being a miniature Pertoleum Oil/Liquid charge for the destruction of small P.O.L. storage containers and vehicle gas tanks. Materials --------- Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves, the bottom flat half fitting into the to bevelled half (standard soap dish) Any homemade high explosive blasting cap .25 in. diameter steel ball bearings and epoxy resin (wristrocket ammo) theremite incediary (Sec. V, No. 20), or other metalized incediary mixture small alnico 5 horseshoe or double sided adhesive tape, or both Procedure --------- 1. To produce a miniature claymore mine, follow the steps below. A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish. B. Fill the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosive. C. Fill the top half to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch diameter steel ball bearings held together with a light coating of epoxy resin. D. Insert the bottom half into the top half and secure in place with tape. 2. To produce a miniature P.O.L. charge, follow the steps below: A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish. B. Fill 1/2 inch of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as thermite or aluminum granules. C. Fill the remaining half of the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosvie. D. Fill 1/2 to the top half with the same homemade explosive. E. Insert the bottom half of the soap dish into the top half and secure in place with tape. How to Use ---------- 1. Claymore mine: A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double-sided adhesive tape or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be attached to almost any surface area. B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear center of the bottom half. C. Insert a detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to the sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator. D. Attach the bottom of the soap dish, vertically, to any surface facing the target area, within a 45 degree angle from either side of the center line of the soap dish. For attachment, use either the tape or magnets, or both if possible. 2. P.O.L. charge: A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double sided adhesive tap, or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be easily be attached to almost any surface area. B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear certer of the top half of the soap dish. C. Insert the detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator. D. Using magnets, tape, or both, attach the bottom of the soap dish to any surface containing petroleum products, i.e., 55 gallon storage drums, rail and truck P.O.L. shipping cars, gas tanks of vehicles, etc. Mini-Compound detonators Sec. II, No. 12 Miniature compound detonators can be made from empty .22 Magnum sheel casings, a quantity of secondary (booster) explosive, a smaller quantity of primary explosive, an ignition charge and a loading press. These powerful miniature detonators are used in the construction of various type of miniature hand grenades, i.e., cigarette lighter hand grenade, shotgun shell impact grenade and explosive candles. Materials --------- Empty .22 magnum shell casings or copper, brass or aluminum tubing 1/4 inch in diameter, 1 inch long, and closed at one end. A quantity of secondary explosive, i.e., RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) or (Sec. I, No. 38), PETN (the center filling of Primacord (detonating cord) A quantity of primary explosive, i.e., mercury fulminate (Sec. I, No. 24), HMTD (Sec. I, No. 17), acetone peroxide (Sec. I, No. 28) An ignition charge or either black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) or small arms propellant A loading press, or materials to construct a loading press as illustrated Procedure --------- 1. If a loading press is not available, construct on as illustrated below: (this is going to be touchy, please stick with me) 5 feet |--------------------------------------------------------| _ metal plate for slot | | 6 ins. \ | | <- 1 inch thick wooden barricade |-------| \ | | _ \ _| | /> slot for lever /- 2x4 __| |__________________|| |/_______________________________ / wooden |_|o|___________________ ________________________________|| lever | | | -| | o--------- | | 2 || | ___peep hole | | | | |-|_/ (safety glass) | | | _ /1 |-| | _| |_ ___ / _| |_ | |_____| |_|_| |_____| | /-------------^--------------------\ | <- Rope |_____________|____________________| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | <-table | | | detonator | | __|__ |_| |_| weight-> |___| Notes: 1. Block- wood (10" x 10" x 6" or steel (6" x 6" x 6") with 3/8" diameter hole 1" deep. 2. 1/4" O.D. hard brass or wood ram Note: The loading press is provided with a protective barrier and a remote system of rope and pulley operation to provide operator safety during loading. Only wood and spark-proof (brass) metals are used near the exlosive. CAUTION: Making detonators is hazardous business that can be made safe by taking certain precautions. Operations must be performed slowly and with great care. Cleanliness is important. Dirt in the explosive or containers will greatly increase sensitivity to detonation by impact or shock. If possible the air should be moist. Boil a bucket of water in the room before starting to work if the air is dry. When inserting and removing the ramrod and when carrying primary explosives, use tongs or pliers. If possible, uuse only one hand at a time when handling the primary explosive in the loading process and wear protective goggles at all times. 2. With the arrangement shown on the preceeding page, the pressure applied to the exlosive inside the shell casing will be about 200x the force applied to the end of the lever. That is, a 20 pound weight pulling at at the handle will compress the explosive with a press of 4,000 lbs. of pressure per sq. in. This pressure is required for the best sensitivity of mercury fulminate. A 2.5 gallon bucket of water weighs about 20 lbs. 3. Light a candle and let two drops of wax drop into the bottom of each shell casing before using. 4. Allow the wax to cool, then insert the shell casing into the loading block. 5. Fill the shell casing to a depth of 1/4 in. with RDX or PETN secondary explosive. Gently insert the ram. 6. Compress the explosive slowly and evenly by pulling on the rope until the weight leaves the ground. Remove the ram carefully. 7. Continue the adding and pressing operation until a column of secondary explosive 5/8 inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch long shell casing. 8. Add a small quantity of primary explosive on top of the secondary explosive and gently insert the ram. 9. Continue the adding and pressing operation until an additional 1/4 inch column of primary explosive has been pressed on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive. 10. Gently compress the remaining 1/8 inch of empty space with an igniter of either black powder or smokeless pistol powder. 11. Seal the top with either tape or wax paper held in place with a small rubber band until ready to use. Note: When inserting the detonator into a selected hand grenade, be careful not to tilt the detonator and let the igniter charge spill out. Instead, place the grenade over the detonator and lower it until the detonator is sealed into place, then invert the genade and fill with explosive. Cigarette Lighter Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. 13 An effective and powerful miniature hand grenade can be made from a Zippo brand cigarette lighter, any homemade explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive device can be used either as a hand grenade or a boobytrap. Materials --------- Any powerful homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-Compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) Black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) Zippo cigarette lighter, approx. 2 1/4" length x 1 1/2" Diam., or larger Copper and brass tubing 9/32" diameter x 12" long hacksaw small mixing bowl epoxy resin Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a zippo lighter with outer case dimensions of approx. 2 1/4 long x 1 1/2" wide x 1/2" deep. Separate the inner lighter mechanism from the outer casing and remove all the cotton wadding. 2. Remove the cotton ignition wick and convert it into a black powder time fuse by the following steps: A. Place a couple of tablespoons of black powder (sec. I, No. 3) into a small mixing bowl and add enough water until it looks like a heavy oil. B. The cotton wick is placed in the oil-like mixture and stirred for 15 minutes so that it becomes saturated with the black powder mix. C. The cotton wick is removed and hung to dry for four hours. D. This mixture fuse was found to have a burning rate of 1.3 seconds per inch. Note: Be sure and test burning time on a similar wick before using. If a new Zippo lighter is used, it is necessary to use the lighter approx. 25 times before disassembling. This will make the lighter appear used and will blacken the cotton ignition wick which will help disguise the black powder time fuse that will be reinserted. 3. Reinsert the cotton wick fuse through the wick hole and leave enough fuse in the ignition chamber so that it can easily bepulled from the igniter. Note: Knot the end of the fuse inside the lighter sothat it won't pull free later when using. 4. Using a hacksaw, cut a one inch length from a 9/32" diameter piece of copper or brass tubing. 5. Insert this one inch tube over the wick hole and use a 1/8" layer of epoxy resin or other strong glue to seal in place. 6. Insert a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) into the holding tube inside the lighter. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all times. 7. Fill the remaining space to within 1/8" of the bottom with any homemade explosive this manual. Note: The explosive can be loaded in first, and when ready to use, simply insert the detonator. When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive, load the cigarette lighter with either base explosive and insert the detonator. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane or nitrobenzene. 8. After filling to within 1/8" in. of the bottom with explosive, cut off a 1/8" strip from the original cotton wadding and insert in the bottom of the lighter to complete the disguise. How to Use ---------- 1. To use as a hand grenade, simply pull out a length of fuse and ignite with a separate cigarette lighter or match. 2. To use as a boobytrap, insert the lighter, with a short fuse, into the target area. Shotgun shell impact grenade Sec. II, No. 14 An effective and powerful impact grenade can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell, any homemade high explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive devise can be used as an impact grenade or as a boobytrap. Materials --------- Any homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, NO. 12) 12 gauge shotgun shell wood dowel or steel bar 11/16" in diameter and any length beyond 1/2" hacksaw drill w/ 1/4" bit pieces of cloth, 12" x 12" epoxy resin or strong glue steel ball bearings 3/8" in diameter electrical tape Procedure --------- 1. Either cut off or open up the forward end of any 12 gauge shotgun shell and empty out the shot, wadding, spacer and propellant. Retain the shell casing. 2. In order for the mini-detonator to be over the center of the primer, a detonator guide cylinder has to be made from either a piece of bar steel or a wooden dowel in the following manner: A. Using a hacksaw, cut a 1/2" length of 11/16" steel bar or wooden dowel. B. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the center of the 1/2 long wood or metal cylinder. Note: It is preferred that a steel cylinder be used in ot to lend more weight to the base of the shell case. 3. After the guide cylinder is prepared, it is glued in place in the bottom of the shotshell case. Note: Do not place any glue on the primer in the base of the shell casing. 4. The mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) is the inserted, open end down, into the guide cylinder and glued in place. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all times. 5. Fill the remaining space in the shotshell case with any homemade high explosive in this manual. Note: When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive, load the shotshell case with either base explosive. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane/nitrobenzene. 6. After the top of the shotshell has been resealed, tape a 3/8" steel ball bearing in place over the center of the primer in the base of the shell. 7. Cloth streamers (12" x 1/2") are then taped in place around the shotshell. These streamers lend stability in flight and insure bottom base impact with the ground. 8. As a further refinement, nails can be taped around the shotshell case with ntches, spaced 1/4" apart, down the length of the shell. How to Use ---------- 1. To use as a grenade, simply throw into the target area. 2. To use as a boobytrap, do not attach streamers or the ball bearing. Simply insert the shotshell case into the target area. Platter Charge Sec. II, No. 15 An extremely effective directional charge can be made from a steel pipe cap, any high explosive, and a tin can. This charge is effective against such targets as transformers, generators, fuel storage containers and vehicles. It can be fired horizontally or used as an improvised land mine and fired vertically. Materials --------- Steel pipe cap with a diameter between 1" and 24" Tin can or other similar container with an inside diameter being the same as the steel pipe cap sheet of wood 1" thick steel pipe cap, (between 1 - 2" in diameter) and a piece of pipe, (approx. 2" in length drill with 1/4" bit Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., nitromethane/ammonium nitrate explosive (Sec. I, No. 34), fertilizer/hydrazine explosive (Sec. I, No. 36), or nitromethane liquid explosive (Sec. I, No. 35) blasting cap Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a steel pipe cap. An ideal diameter would be 6 - 12". However, pipe caps as small as 1" may be used. 2. Locate a coffee can or similar container with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the pipe cap. Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty the contents of the can and clean it out. 3. Place the pipe cap in the bottom of the can with the concave side facing the bottom of the can. 4. An exact center priming disk must be made from a 1" thick piece of wood in the following manner: A. Using the coffee can lid from step 2 as a template, place it on a sheet of wood 1" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil. B. Using a saw, cut the disk out of the sheet of wood. After cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole through the exact center. If this priming disk is to be used as a packing tool for the solid explosive, center sink the 1/4" center hole to fit the head of a 1/4" bolt. Set the disk aside for later use. 5. If a solid explosive is being used. the following constructon technique should be used: A. Using the center priming disk prepared from step 4, a uniform packing tool can be prepared by the addition of a 1/4" nut and bolt, a steel pipe cap and a piece of pipe. B. Carefully pack an amount of solid explosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap around and behind the pipe cap using the packing tool. For example, if the pipe cap weighs five pounds, use five pounds of solid explosive. Note: For this charge to be effective, it is necessary to uniformly pack the explosive behind the pipe cap with no air gaps. C. After the explosive has been loaded into the tin can behind the inverted pipe cap, disassemble the packing tool and place the priming disk over the ompressed explosive. Seal the inside edges with glue, wax, or tar. The discarded pipe handle and cap can be used later to form a pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) Note: The wood priming disk prepared in step 4 has three ain uses: as a packing tool for solid explosive, as a lid to keep the explosve from falling out of the conainer, and as a template that insures exact rear center priming of the charge. D. After the priming disk has been sealed in place, insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the solid explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the cap with glue, wax or tar. 6. When using a liquid explosive, an easier construction method may be used: A. When ready to use, simply pour in an amount of liquid exlosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap and seal in place the wood priming disk prepared instep 4. B. Insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the liquid explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar. 7. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a wrist watch delay timer with battery (Sec. VI, No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever. ----------------------------------- | *&*)+(_)(*_&)(_*&)(*&&)(*&*(&() | | *&(@#*_#() coffee ()&*^)^67^& | | ^&%^$&^$#%^T*T*&%^*&%$&*^%^*&%^ | |---------------------------------| <- false bottom && = bulb initia.| () () () () |&&| /----------\ | <- batteries in series w/ XXX = sealant-> |************XXX|c |XXX***********| wrist watch timer |***************|a |**************| <- wood packing disk |***************|p |**************| |///////////////| |//////////////| |///////////////| |//////////////| |///////////////|__|//////////////| |/////////////////////////////////| |/////////// explosive /////////| |/////////////////////////////////| |//////---------------------\\\\\\| |//////| pipe cap |\\\\\\| |//////| |\\\\\\| |_____/ \_____| || || ||_______________________________|| ----------------------------------- Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inseting a third disk covering the fizing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and then pouring coffee into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can to complete the disguise. How to Use ---------- 1. The unique capability of this charge is that it can be fired through a chain link fence and into its target without any loss of effectiveness. At close range the platter will penetrate about one inch of mild steel plate. It is effective at ranges up to 100 feet or more, although at this distance penetration is reduced to about 1/4" of mild steel at best and sighting becomes a problem unless the target is a very large one. 2. Upon detonation, the platter is projected forward at tremendous velocity. The air in front of the platter is compressed and becomes superheated. It is this mass of air, moving at extremely high velovity, that first penetrates the target. The platter follows and may indeed strike the target, but research has shown that the primary destruction effect is created by the compacted high velocity air column. SCIMP (Special Charge Improvised Projectile) charge Sec. II, No. 16 Using materials that are readily available in its construction, this mine will defeat almost any target that is mad-made, i.e., tanks, armored cars, buildings, etc. This charge is four times for effective than any other directional charge, to include shaped and platter charges. This directional charge utilizes two special techniques to achieve its effectiveness; one is sandwiching an explosive charge between two steel plates, and the other involves detonating this charge from all sides at the same time (periphreal detonation). Materials --------- oil filter cap or other similar steel dish No. 6 sheet metal screws, 1" long steel plate, 1/8" thick Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., fertilizer/nitromethane, fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive, and nitromethane liquid explosive wood or styrofoam sheets, 1" thick blasting cap coffee can or other similar container drill with 1/4" bit Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a concave steel dish, 3" to 12" in diameter: for example, by removing the center retaining bolt from any two piece oil filter assy. and using the oil filter cap (an oil filter from a 1951-53 chevy, with a diameter of 5 1/4" is ideal). 2. Plug the bolt hole in the center of the cap with wood, rubber, or cork stopper. 3. Using the oil filter cap as a template, place it on a sheet of steel 1/8" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil. 4. Using a hacksaw, cut the disk out of the plate. 5. Repear steps 3 and 4, cutting out two disks from a 1" thick sheet of wood or styrofoam. 6. Take the three disks (one steel and the other two wood or styrofoam) and glue them together with the steel disk on one side. Set aside for later use. 7. Locate a coddee can or similar container with an inside diameter 1/4" to 1/2" larger that the outside diameter of the filter ca. Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty and clean the can. 8. Using the coffee can lid as a template, repeat steps 3 and 4 on a 1" thick sheet of wood, and after cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole in the exact center and set aside for later use. 9. Place the oil can filter cap in the bottom center of the coffee can and glue in place with the concave cap facing towards the bottom of the cap. | ____ | | ____________/ \___________ | |/ \| |-------------------------------| 10. If a solid explosive is being used, the following construction technique should be used: A. Mark two rings around the inside of the coffee can; one 3" from the bottom of the can, and the second 5 5/8" from the bottom of the can. B. Carefully pack the explosive uniformly around the filter cap until it reaches the 3" mark inside the can. Note: The 1" thick wood disk prepared from step 8 can be used as a uniform packing tool by attaching an improvised handle using a piece of pipe, two pipe caps and a 1/4" nut and bolt. C. After reaching the 3" mark inside the can, place the three later disk assy. (prepared in step 6) on top of the compressed explosive. Center it with the steel disk on the explosive. D. Carefully pack the explosive between the inside edge of the can and the edge of the three layer disk assy. until the explosive level is even with the top of the disk. E. Carefully pack an additional 1/2" layer of explosive on top of the last styrofoam or wood disk. This layer should reach the second ring marked inside the can. Note: Again the wood disk/pipe packing tool can be used to compress the remaining explosive on top of the charge. F. Disassemble the wood disk/pipe packing tool by removing the center nut and bolt that holds the two together. Save and use the pipe for a future pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1). G. Place the 1" thick wood packing disk on top of the explosive contained inside the can and seal with glue, wax or tar. H. When ready to use, insert a 1/4" blasting cap through the center hole in the wood disk and into the 1/2" layer of explosive. Note: The wood disk prepared from step 8 has three main uses; a packing tool, a lid to prevent the explosive from falling out of the container, and a template that insures rear center priming of the charge. 11. When using a liquid explosive, a slightly different and easier construction method is used: A. Mark two rings around the inside of the can; one 5 1/8" from the bottom of the can and the second 6 5/8 from the bottom of the can. B. Place the top of the three layer disk assy. at the level of the first ring marked inside the can and secure in place with four No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced wvery 90 degrees around the outside of the coffee can and screwed into the center of the center disk assy. Since the disk assy. is smaller than the inside diameter of the coffee can, it can be held in place by inserting 1/4" wood dowels between the can and the assy. When the four supporting screws have been screwed into place, the wooden dowels can be removed. C. Place the remaining 1" thick wood disk, prepared from step 8, at the level of the second ring marked inside the can and secure in place with four more No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced every 90 degrees around the outside of the can. Seal the inside edges with wax, glue or tar. D. When ready to use, simply pour the liquid explosive through the center hole until fill. Insert a blasting cap through the hole and into the 1/2" layer of liquid explosive. Seal around the hole and blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar. 12. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a watch delay timer with batteries (Sec. IV, No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever. 13. After the fuzing mechanism has been inserted, the original metal lid that was removed and set aside ealier is now glued inside the plastic sealing lid that comes with most coffee cans and snapped back in place on top of the can. The whole charge then resembles an ordinary coffee can. plastic lid | |------------------------------------------| | *&&&*^%&&*&%^*&^**&^%%^&*%%^*&&%^**&^^%% | | ()*(*((^*&&%^ coffee *&%$%$*&%&**(&*$ | | (_*(_)*&^&%^**&^(()*__)(*(*&^_*&^(^&%&%^ | |------------------------------------------|<-false bottom ()= batteries | () () () () |&&| ----\\\\\\\\ |<-batteries in &&= electric |+__________________+|c |+_----////////___+| series, clothes += seaant |+ |a | +| pin delay |+___________________|p |_________________+| _ |//\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ | |\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//| | 1/2" explosive |\\///////////////// |__|////////////////\\| - on top of disc |\\--------------------------------------//| |\\- -\\| |//--------------------------------------//| <- no space |\\--------------------------------------\\| between metal screw ***** ***** metal screw |//--------------------------------------//| |\\@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@\\| <- steel plate |//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| |\\\\\\ "\" and "/" = explosive //////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| | /---\ | | /------------------------------------\ | | | oil cap | | | -------------------------------------- | ============================================ Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inserting a third disk covering the fuzing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and the pouring coffee back into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can to complete the disguise. How to Use ---------- 1. The SCIMP charge should be used when direct access to the target it not possible, i.e., under or beside a roadway or hanging on a fence looking into the target area. 2. The applications are very similar to a platter charge with the exception that the SCIMP charge has far greater penetration ability of hard targets at long distances than does the platter charge. The SCIMP charge described here can penetrate 1" thick steel at 50 years. Note: The SCIMP charge relies on a super-heated, rod-like projectile traveling at ultra high velocity to destroy its target. Typist Note: I, the Mad Cracker, am not going to type every damn picture in the book. If you would like to build a "pipe pistol" I suggest you buy the books. Unless you totally understand the instructions, I would not consider to attempt these without pictures, as they are dangerous enough when done with the pictures. Pipe Pistol for 9mm Ammunition Sec. III, No. 1 A 9mm pistol can be made from 1/4" steel, gas or water pipe and fittings. Materials --------- 1/4" nominal size water pipe, 4-6 inches long with threaded ends 1/4"solid pipe plug Two (2) steel pipe couplings Metal strap, roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5" Two (2) elastic bands Flat head nail, 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" in diameter) Two (2) wood screws #8 wood 8" x5" x 1" drill 1/4" wood or metal rod, approx. 8" long Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a 9mm cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should closely fit into the pipe without forcing but the cartridge case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe. C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT be less that 1 1/2 times bullet diameter (.536 in; 1.37 cm) 2. Drill a 9/16" diameter hole 3/8" into one coupling to remove the thread. Note: Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of the pipe. 3. Drill a 25/64" diameter hole 3/4" into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the case should be even with the end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe, drilled end first. 4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: THE HOLE MUST BE CENTERED IN PLUG. 5. Push nail through plug until head of nail is flush with square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16" away from plug. Round off end of nail wih file. 6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and drill holes for wood screws. File two small notches at top. 7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" thick hardwood into stock. |- length must be 2" greater than length of unassembled pipe -| - | <---2 ins.---> |-------------------------------| - | |-1 in.-|------------------ | | 1in. | / | | 6 | / --------- - i | / ----------------------------/ n | / / s | / <-2 in. -> / | / / | / / | / / | / / - ---------------- 8. Drll a 9/16" diameter hole through the stock. The center of the hole should be approx. 1/2" from the top. 9. Slide the pipe through this hole and attach front coupling. Note: If 9/16" drill is not available, cut a "V" groove in the top of the stock and tape pipe securely in place. 10. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screws on each side. 11. String elastic bands from front coupling to notch on each side of the strap. SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE PISTOL BEFORE HAND FIRING 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behid in case the pistol ruptures when fired. 2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier. 3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the pistol. 4. Holing the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier. 5. Pull cord so that the firing strap is held back. 6. Release the cord to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their number) Note: Fire at least five rounds behind the barrier and then re-inspect the pistol before you attempt to hand fire it. How to Operate Pistol --------------------- 1. To load: A. Remove plug from rear coupling. B. Place cartridge into pipe. C. Replace plug. 2. To Fire: A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb until ready. B. Release strap. 3. To remove shell case: A. Remove plug from rear coupling. B. Insert 1/4" diameter steel or wooden rod into front of pistol and push shell case out. Shotgun (12 gauge) Sec. III, No. 2 A 12 gauge shotgun can be made from 1/4" water or gas pipe and fittings. Materials --------- Wood 2" x 4" x 32" 3/4" nominal size water or gas pipe 20" to 30" long threaded on one end 3/4" steel coupling solid 3/4" pipe plug metal strap (1/4" x 1/16" x 4") twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards 3 wood screws and screwdriver flat head nail 6D or 8D hand drill saw or knife file shellac or lacquer elastic bands Procedure --------- 1. Careffully inspect pipe and fittings A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws. B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12-gauge shot shell should fit into the pipe, but the brass rim should not. C. Outside diameter of pipe must be at least 1 in. 2. Cut stock from wood using a saw or knife. (excuse the shitty drawing) | <- 32 ins. approx. -> | |--1 in. | |-> 13.5 in. <-|______________________________________ _ | ___________________________/____________________________________|_||2 in \->/__________________________/ --- - 4| | ________--- |-| i| | ________------- 2 in. n| |_____________________---------------- - 3. Cut a 3/8" deep "V" groove in the top of the stock. 4. Turn coupling onto pipe until tight. 5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and, while it is still wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer. 6. Drill a hole through the center of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass through. 7. File threaded end of plug flat. 8. Push nail through plug and cut off flat 1/32" past the plug. 9. Screw plug into coupling. 10. Bend 4" metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on the long side 1/2" from the bend. 11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screw. 12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4" in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock. SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE SHOTGUN BEFORE HAND FIRING 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behind in case the weapon explodes when fired. 2. Mount shotgun rigidly to a table or other support at least ten feet in front of the barrier. 3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the shotgun. 4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier. 5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back. 6. Release the cord to fire the shotgun. (if shotgun does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their numbers.) Note: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then re-inspect the shotgun before you attempt to shoulder fire it. How to Operate -------------- 1. To load: A. Take plug out of coupling.. B. Put shotgun shell into pipe. C. Screw plug hand tight into coupling. 2. To fire: A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb. B. Release strap. 3. To unload: A. Take plug out of coupling. B. Shake out used cartridge. Shotshell dispersion control Sec. III, No. 4 When desired, shotshell can be modified to reduce shot dispersion. Materials --------- Shotshell screwdriver or knife Any of the following fillers: crushed rice rice flour dry bread crumbs fine dry sawdust Procedure --------- 1. Carefully remove crimp from shotshell using a screwdriver or knife. Note: If cartrige is of roll crimp type, remove top wad. 2. Pour shot from shell. 3. Replace one layer of shot in the cartridge. pour in filler material to fill the space between the shot. 4. Repeat step 3 until all shot has been replaced. 5. Replace top wad (if applicable) and re-fold crimp. 6. Roll shell on flat surface to smooth out crimp and restore roundness. 7. Seal end of case with wax. (from lit candle) How to Use ---------- 1. This round is loaded and fired in the same manner as a standard shotshell. The shot spread will be about 2/3 that of a standard round. Carbine (7.62 mm; .308 Winchester) Sec. III, No. 4 A rifle can be made from water or gas pipe and fittings. Standard cartridges are used for ammunition. Materials --------- wood approx. 2 in. x 4 in. x 30 in. 1/4 in. nominal size iron water or gas pipe 20 in. long threaded at one end. 3/8 in. to 1/4 in. reducer 3/8 in. x 1 1/2" threaded pipe 3/8" pipe coupling metal strap approx. 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in. twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards 3 wood screws and screwdriver flat head nail about 1 in. long hand drill saw or knife file pipe wrench shellac or lacquer elastic bands solid 3/8 in. pipe plug Procedure --------- 1. Inspect pipe and fittings carefully. A. Make sure there are no cracks or flaws. B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 7.62 mm projectile should fit 3/8" into pipe. 2. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife. Dimensions: 30" long 4" high at butt end 15" section from butt to center of rifle 1" below original taper 1 1/2" wide throughout 2" high at tapered end 3. Cut a 1/4" deep "V" groove in top of the stock. 4. Fabricate rifle barrel from pipe. A. File or drill inside diameter of threaded end of 20 in. pipe for about 1/4" so neck of cartridge case will fit in. B. Screw reducer onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench. C. Screw short threaded pipe into reducer. D. Turn 3/8 pipe coupling onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench. All fittings should be as tight as possible. Do not split fittings. 5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer. While still wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer. 6. Drill a hole through center of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass through. 7. File threaded end of plug flat. 8. Push nail through plug and cut off rounded 1/32 in. past the plug. 9. Screw plug into coupling. 10. Bend 4 in. metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on the long side 1/2" from bend. 11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screw. 12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4 in. in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock. SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE RIFLE BEFORE HAND FIRING Follow all notes and steps from Sec. III, No. 2. How to Operate -------------- Follow all steps from Sec. III, No. 2. Including loading, firing, and unloading. Reusable primer Sec. III, No. 5 A method of making a previously fired primer reusable. Materials --------- used cartridge case 2 long nails having approx. the same diameter as the inside of the primer pocket "Strike - Anywhere" matches: 2 or 3 needed for each primer vise hammer knife or other sharp edged instrument Procedure --------- 1. File one nail to a needle point so that it is small enough to fit through hole in primer pocket. 2. Place cartridge and nail between jaws of vise. 3. Remove anvil from primer cup. 4. File down point of second nail until tip is flat. 5. Remove indentations from face of primer cup with hammer and flattened nail. 6. Cut off tips of the heads of "strike anywhere" matches using knife. Carefully crush the match tips on dry surface with wooden match stick until the mixture is the consistency of sugar. Note: Do not crush more that 3 match tips at a time or the mixture may explode. 7. Pour mixture into primer cup. Compress mixture with wooden match stick until primer cup is fully packed. 8. Place anvil in primer pocket with legs down. 9. Place cup in pocket with mixture facing downward. 10. Place cartridge case and primer cup between vise jaws, and press slowly until primer is seated into bottom of pocket. The primer is now ready for use. Pipe Pistol for .45 ammunition Sec. III, No. 6 A .45 caliber pistol can be made from 3/8 in. nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is about 15 yards. Materials --------- Steel pipe, 3/8 in. in nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends 2 threaded couplings to fit pipe solid pipe plug to fit pipe coupling hard wood, 8.5 in. x 6.5 in. x 1 in. tape or string flat head nail, approx. 1/16" in diameter 2 wood screws, approx. 1/16" in diameter metal strap, 5 in. x 1/4 in. x 1/8 in. bolt, 4 in. long, with nut (optional) elastic bands drills, one 1/16 in. in diameter and one the same as the bolt (optional) rod, 1/4" in diameter and 8 in. long saw or knife Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are no cracks or flaws in the pipe and fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using .45 caliber cartridge as a gauge. The cartridge should fit into the pipe snugly, but without forcing. C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less that 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter. 2. Follow procedure of Section III, No. 1, steps 4, 5 and 6. 3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife. |<- 6 ins. ->| --- |--------------------------------------| 1.5| | ---\ --- in_|_ |_________________ \ | | \ | | <- 2 ins. -> |____________ \ | 5 \ \ | i |<- 1.5 in->| \ \ | n \ \ | s \ \ | \ \ | \ \ | \______________\ --- |<- 8.5 ins. ->| 4. Cut a 3/8 in. "V" groove in the top of the stock. 5. Screw couplings into pipe. Screw plug into coupling. 6. Securely attach pipe to stock using string or tape. 7. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 10 and 11. 8. (optional) Bend bolt for trigger. Drill hole in stock and place bolt in hole so strap will be anchored by bolt when pulled back. If bolt is not available, use strap as trigger by pulling back and releasing. 9. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1. How to Use ---------- 1. To load: A. Remove plug from rear coupling. B. Wrap string or elastic band around extractor groove so case will seat into barrel securely. C. Place cartridge into pipe. D. Replace plug. 2. To fire: A. Pull metal strap back and anchor in trigger. B. Pull trigger when ready to fire. C. If bolt is not used, pull strap back and release. 3. To remove spent cartridge: A. Remove plug from rear coupling. B. Insert rod into front of pistol and push cartridge case out. Match gun Sec. III, No. 7 An improvised weapon using safety matches as the propellant and a metal object as the projectile. Lethal reange is about 40 yards. Materials --------- Metal pipe, 24 in. long and 3/8 in. in diameter (nominal size) or its equivalent, threaded on one end end cap to fit pipe safety matches- 3 books of 20 matches each wood- 28 in. x 4 in. x 1 in. toy caps OR safety fuse OR "strike anywhere" matches (2) electrical tape or string metal strap about 4 in. x 1/4 in. x 3/16 in. 2 rags, about 1 in. x 12 in. and 1 in. x 3 in. wood screws elastic bands metal object (steel rod, bolt with head cut off, etc.) approx. 7/16 in. in diameter, and 7/16 in. long if iron or stell, 1 1/4 in. long if aluminum, 5/16 in. long if lead metal disk 1 in. in diameter and 1/16 in. thick (quarter?) bolt, 3/32 in. or smaller in diameter and nut to fit saw or knife Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. Be sure that there are no cracks or other flaws. 2. Drill a small hole in center of end cap. If safety fuse is used, be sure it will pass through this hole. 3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife. Dimensions: recess ________________ __/_|_\______| ___- <- taper 4 in. at butt (high) butt->| _____------- 1 in. thick ------------- 1/2 in. at tapered end 28 in. long 14 in. recessed 4. Cut a 3/8 in. deep "V" groove in top of stock. 5. Screw end cap onto pipe until tight. 6. Attach pipe to stock with string or tape. 7. Bend metal strap into "L" shape and drill holes for wood screw. Notch metal strap on long side 1/2 in. from bend. 8. Position metal strap on stock so that the top will hit the center of hole drilled in end cap. 9. Attach metal disk to strap with nut and bolt. This will deflect blast from hole in end cap when gun is fired. Be sure that head of bolt is centered on hole in end cap. 10. Attach strap to stock with wood screws. 11. Place screw on each side of stock about 4 in. in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of stock. How to Use ---------- A. When toy caps are used: 1. Cut off match heads from 3 books of matches with knife. Pour match heads into pipe. 2. Fold one end of 1 in. x 12 in. rag 3 times so that it becomes a 1 in. square of 3 thicknesses. Place rag into pipe to cover match heads. 3. Place metal object into pipe. Place 1 in. x 3 in. rag into pipe to cover projectile. Tamp firmly WITH CAUTION. 4. Place toy caps over small hole in end cap. Be sure metal strap will hit caps when it is released. Note: It may be necessary to tape toy caps to end cap. 5 When ready to fire, pull strap back and release. B. When "Strike-Anywhere" matches are used: 1. Follow steps 1-3 in A. 2. Carefully cut off tips of heads of 2 "strike-anywhere" matches with knife. 3. Place one tip in hole in end cap. Push in with wooden end of match stick. 4. Place second match tip on a piece of tap. Place tape so match tip is directly over hole in end cap. 5. When ready to fire, pull metal strap back and release. C. When safety fuse is available (recommended for booby traps) 1. Remove end cap from pipe. Knot one end of safety fuse. Thread safety fuse through hole in end cap so that knot is on inside of end cap. 2. Follow steps 1-3 in A. 3. Tie several matches to safety fuse outside end cap. Note: Bare end of safety fuse should be inside match head cluster. 4. Wrap match covers around matches and tie. Striker should be in contact with match bands. 5. Replace end cap on pipe. 6. When ready to fire, pull match cover off with strong, firm, quick motion. Note: Follow safety check from Sec. III, No. 1. Rifle Cartridge Sec. III, No. 8 A method of making a previously fired rifle cartridges reusable. Note: See Sec. III, No. 5 for reusable primer Materials --------- Emppty rifle cartridge, be sure it still fits inside gun threaded bolt that fits into neck of cartridge at least 1 1/4 in. long safety or strike anywhere matches (58 needed for 7.62 mm cartridge) rag wad (about 3/4 in. square for 7.62 mm cartridge) knife saw Procedure --------- 1. Remove coating on head of matches by scaping match sticks with sharp edge. CAUTION: If wooden "strike-anywhere" matches are used, cut off the tips first. Discard tips or use for Reusable Primer, Sec. III, No. 5. 2. Fill previously primed cartridge case with match head coatings up to its neck. Pack evenly and tightly with match stick. Note: remove head of match stick before packing. In all packing operations, stand off to the side and pack gently. Do not hammer. 3. Place rag wad in neck of case. Pack with match stick from which head was removed. 4. Saw off head end of bolt so remainder is approx. the length of standard bullet. 5. Place bolt in cartridge case so that it sticks out about the same length as the original bullet. Note: If bolt does not fit snugly, force paper or match sticks between bolt and case, or wrap tape around bolt before inserting in case. Pipe pistol for .38 caliber ammunition Sec. III, No. 9 A .38 caliber pistol can be made from 1/4 in. nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is approx. 33 yards. Materials --------- Steel pipe, 1/4 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends (nipple) solid pipe plug, 1/4 in. nominal diameter 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/4 in. nominal diameter metal strap, approx. 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in. elastic bands flat head nail- 6D or 8D, approx. 1/16 in. in diameter 2 wood screws, #8 hard wood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in. drill wood or metal rod, 1/4 in. diameter and 8 in. long saw or knife Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a .38 cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should fit closely into the pipe without forcing, but then the cartridge case should not fit into the pipe. C. Outside diameter of the pipe must NOT be less that 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter. 2. Drill a 35/64 in. diameter hole 3/4 in. into one coupling to remove the thread. Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of pipe. 3. Drill a 25/64 in. diameter hole 1 1/8 in. into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the shoulder of the case should butt against the end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe. 4. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 4-11. 5. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1. How to Use ---------- Follow procedures of How to Operate Pistol, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3. Pipe Pistol for .22 caliber Ammunition (long or short) Sec. III, No. 10 A .22 cal. pistol can be made from 1/8 in. nominal diameter extra heavy, steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is about 33 yards. Materials --------- steel pipe, extra heavy, 1/8 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends (nipple) solid pipe plug, 1/8 in. nominal diameter 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in. elastic bands flat head nail- 6D or 8D approx. 1/16 in. diameter 2 wood screws, #8 hardwood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in. drill wood or metal rod saw or knife Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a .22 caliber cartridge, long or short, as a gauge. The bullet should fit closely into the pipe without forcing, but the cartridge case should NOT fit into the pipe. C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less than 1 1/2 times the bullet diameter. 2. Drill a 15/64 in. diameter hole 9/16 in. deep in the pipe for long cartridge. (If short cartridge is used, drill hole 3/8 in. deep). When a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the shoulder of the case should butt against the end of the pipe. 3. Screw the coupling onto the pipe. Cut coupling length to allow pipe plug to thread in pipe flush against the cartridge case. 4. Drill a hole off center of the pipe plug just large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: Drilled hole MUST BE OFF CENTER in plug. (Centered, but low) 5. Push nail through pipe plug until head of nail is flush with square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16 in. away from plug. Round off end with file. 6. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 6-11. 7. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1. How to Use ---------- Follow procedures of How to Use, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3. Low Signature System Sec. III, No. 11 Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons (Sec. III) can be made from steel gas or water pipe and fittings. Materials --------- grenade container (approx. 2.75 in. in diameter, 5 in. long) steel pipe nipple, 6 in. long- See table 1 for diameter 2 steel pipe couplings- See table 2 for dimensions cotton cloth- See table 2 for dimensions drill absorbent cotton Procedure --------- 1. Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter of pipe nipple. (See table 1) 2. Drill four (4) rows of holes in pipe nipple. use table 1 for diameter and location of hole. Table I. Low signature system dimensions ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Holes Four (coupling) per rows A B C D row total ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- .45 cal. 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48 .38 cal. 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 9 MM 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 7.62 MM 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48 .22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8 14 50 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- *- extra heavy pipe All dimensions in inches 3. Thread on of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple. 4. Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread filly into low signature system. Barrel should butt against end of the drilled pipe nipple. 5. Separate the top half of the grenade container from the bottom half. 6. Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the bottom half of container. Pack the absorbent cotton inside the container and around the pipe nipple. 7. Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving hole in center. Assend container to the bottom half. 8. Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple. Note: The longer container and pipe nipple, with saw "A" and "B" dimensions as those given, will further reduce the signature of the system. How to Use ---------- 1. Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely. 2. Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system. Table II. Cotton wadding- Sizes --------------------------------- weapon cotton wad size --------------------------------- .45 1 1/2 in. x 6 in. .38 1 x 4 in. 9 mm 1 x 4 in. 7.62 mm 1 x 4 in. .22 not needed 3. Load weapon. 4. Weapon is now ready to use. Cherry Bomb Flechette gun Sec. III, No. 14 Typist note: In the Black book III, the .22 pistol is done again. Since the two are almost identical and therefore, the second one has not be typed and presented here. That is the reason for this section being No. 14, instead of No. 13. A highly effective, hand held shotgun can be made from 3/4 in. water pipe and the projectiles are homemade flechettes (steel darts) made from box nails. This shotgun uses cherry bombs as a source of propellant and can achieve muzzle velocities as high as 1300 feet per second. The effective range is appox. 50 yards. Materials --------- 3/4 in. diameter water pipe, 12 inches long 3/4 in. pipe coupler and pipe plug box nails between 1 in. and 1 1/2 in. long short piece of 3/4 in. water pipe, approx 2 in. long rubber from inner tube cork from wine bottle plaster of paris hammer and drill with 1/8 in. bit cherry bombs or homemade flash powder Procedure --------- 1. Flechette rounds can be made in the following manner: A. Flatten the heads of box nails with a hammer. B. Pour plaster of paris into a mold made from a short section of 3/4 in. water pipe, to a depth of 3/8 in. C. Insert the nails, fins down, into this mold and allow the plaster of paris to harden. (approx. 20 minutes) D. Push the flechette round out of the mold and set aside for later use. 2. For every flechette round that is prepared, a gas seal spacer has to also be prepared in the following manner: A. Using the short section of 3/4 in. water pipe as a die, sharpen the edges with a file and hammer out circular pieces from a rubber inner tube. B. Using a razor blade, cut a 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cord into 1/2 in. sections. C. Attach the rubber gas seal to the cork spacer with a thumb tack. 3. The shotgun may be prepared in the following manner: A. Drill a 1/8 in. diameter hole through the center of a 3/4 in. pipe plug, then screw the pipe plug into a 3/4 in. pipe coupler. B. Screw this pipe coupler assy. onto one end of a 12 inch long piece of 3/4 in. water pipe. How To Use ---------- 1. Unscrew the pipe coupler assy. from the end of the pipe. 2. Insert the flechette round into the pipe. 3. Insert the gas seal spacer assy. behind the flechette round. 4. Insert a cherry bomb into the pipe coupler assy. with the fuse protruding from the rear of the pipe plug. 5. Screw the coupling assy. onto the pipe and ignite the fuse. Note: Gloves should be worn if this weapon is to be hand fired. With sufficient practice, it can be fired, broken down, reloaded and fired again in a reasonably short period of time. A second application is to fire it electrically. By using an electric bulb initiator (Sec. IV, No. 1) and filling the bulb with the contents of a cherry bomb, this weapon can be used as an effective booby trap to cover a trail or other type of passageway. It can still be hand fired by means of a hand held battery pack and switch arrangment. If cherry bombs are not available, the following flash powders can be substituted: 1. 4 parts by weight of potassium perchlorate 1 part by weight of antimony sulfide 1 part by weight aluminum powder 2. 3 parts by weight of potassium permanganate 2 parts by weight of aluminum powder 3. 4 parts by weight of potassium chlorate 1 part by weight of sulfur 1 part by weight of aluminum powder The fist mixture is standard cherry bomb powder and should be used whenever possible. The second mixture is an excellent substitute for the first and is relatively safe to handle. The third mixture is extremely shock sensitive and should only be used as a last resort. To use these mixtures, separately pulverize each ingredient into a fine powder. Add these powder ingredients to a canning jar or other similar container with a tight fitting lid. Mix thoroughly by gently tumbling the container between the hands of a period of five minutes. Add one gram (approx. 1 teaspoon) to an electric bulb initiator when ready to use. Recoilless launcher Sec. IV, No. 1 A dual directional scrap fragment launcher which can be placed to cover the path of advancing troops. Materials --------- Iron water pipe approx. 4 ft. long and 4 in. in diameter black powder (commercial) or salvaged artillery propellant (about 1/2 lb.) safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) or iomprovised electrical igniter (Sec. IV, No. 2) stones and/or metal scrap approx 1/2 in. in diameter- about 1 lb. 4 rags fro wadding- each about 20 in. x 20 in. wire paper or rag Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws Procedure --------- 1. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tir with string so contents cannot fall out. 2. Insert packaged propellant and igniter in center of pipe. Pull string leads out one end of pipe. 3. Stuff a rag wad into each end of pipe and lightly tamp using a flat end stick. 4. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into each end of pipe. Be sure the same weight of material is used on each side. 5. Insert a rag wad into each end of the pipe and pack tightly as before. How to Use ---------- 1. Place scrap mine in a tree or pointed in the path of the enemy. Attach igniter lead to the firing circuit. The recoilless launcher is ready to fire. 2. If safety or improvised fuse is used instead of the detonator, place the fuse into thepackaged propellant through a hole drilled in the center of the pipe. Light free end of fuse when ready to fire. Allow for normal delay time. Caution: Scrap will be ejected from both ends of the pipe. Shotgun grenade launcher Sec. IV, No. 2 This device can be usedto launch a hand grenade to a distance of 160 yards or more, using a standard 12 gauge shotgun. Materials --------- Grenade (Improvised pipe grenade, Sec. II, No. 1, may be used) 12 gauge shotgun 12 gauge shotgun shells two washers, (brass, steel, iron, etc.), having outside diameter of 5/8 in. rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameterand 1/4 in. thick (leather, neoprene, etc.) can be used a 30 in. long piece of hard wood (maple, oak, etc.) approx. 5/8 in. in diameter- be sure it will slide down barrel easily tin can (grenade and safety lever must fit into can) two wooden blocks about 2 in. square and 1 1/2 in. thick one wood screw about 1 in. long two nails about 2 in. long 12 gauge wads, tissue paper, or cotton adhesive tape, string, or wire drill Procedure --------- 1. Punch hole in center of rubber disk large enough for screw to pass through. 2. Make push rod as shown (I hate this): |+|::|+|------------------------- =|+| |+|------------------------- =|+| |+|------------------------- |+|::|+|------------------------- where: "=" is screw head ":" (space between) is rebber disk "|+|" is a washer "|-|" is a wooden stick Note: Gun barrel is slightly less than 3/4 in. in diameter. If rubber disk does not fit in barrel, file or trim it very slightly. It should fit tightly. 3. Drill a hole through the center of one wooden block of such size that the push rod will fit tightly. Whittle a depression around the hole on one side approx. 1/8 in. and large enough for the grenade to rest in. 4. Place the base of the grenade in the wooden block. Securely fasten grenade to block by wrapping tape (or wire) around entire grenade and block. Note: Be sure that the tape or wire does not cover hole in block or interfere with the operation of the grenade or safety lever. 5. Drill hole through the center of the second wooden block, so that it will just slide over the outside of the gun barrel. 6. Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the tin can the same size as the hole in the block. 7. Attach can to block as shown: (this is getting on my nerves) -----------------------------------------------| ______| \ | | ++|++++++|+ | | | | | | | | ++|++++++|+ / | | |______| | ------------------------------------------------ This diamgram (hmpf!) represents the can, a wood block at the bottom, and nails holding the block on (they are to be bent over). 8. Slide the can and block onto the barrel until muzzle passes the can's open end. Wrap a small piece of tape around the barrel an inch or two from the end. Tightly wrapped string may be used instead of tape. Force the can and wooden block forward against the tape so that they are securely held in place. Wrap tape around the barrel behind the can. Caution: Be sure that the can is securely fastened to the gun barrel. If the can should become looses and slip down the barrel after the launcher is assembled, the grenade will explode aftr the egular delay time. 9. Remove crimp from a 12 gauge shotgun shell with pen knife. Open cartridge. Pour shot from shell. Remove wads and plastic liner, if present. 10. Empty the propellant onto a piece of paper. Using a knife, divide the propellant in half. Replace half of the propellant into the cartridge case. 11. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads into cartridge case. Note: If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper or cotton into the cartridge case. Pack tighly. How to Use ---------- Method I- when ordinary grenade is used: 1. Load cartridge into gun. 2. Push end of push-rod without the rubber disk into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade. 3. Slowly push rod into barrel until it rests against the cartridge case and grenade is in can. If the grenade is not in the can, remove rod and cut to proper size. Push rod back into barrel. 4. With can holding safety lever of grenade in place, carefully remove safety pin. Caution: Be sure that the sides of the can restrain the grenade safety lever. If the safety lever should be released for any reason, the grrenade will explode after regular delay time. 5. To fire grenade launcher, rest gun in ground at angle determined by range desired. A 45 degree andgle should give about 160 yards. Method II- when improvised pipe grenade is used: An improvised pipe grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) may be launched in a similar manner. No tin can is needed. 1. Fasten the grenade to the block as shown above with the fuse hole at the end opposite the block. 2. Push end of push-rod into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade. 3. Push rod into barrel until it rests against cartridge case. 4. Load cartrige in gun. 5. Follow step 5 of method I. 6. Using a fuse with at least a 10 second delay, light the fuse before firing. 7. Fire when the fuse burns to 1/2 its original length. Grenade Launcher (57 mm cardboard container) Sec. IV, No. 3 An improvised method of launching a standard grenade 150 yards or an improvised grenade 90 yards using a discarded cardboard ammunition container. Materials --------- Heavy cardboard container with inside diameter of 2 1/2 to 3 in. and at least 12 in. long- ammunition container is suitable black poswder- 8 grams (124 grams) or less safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) grenade or (improvised grenade, Sec. II, No. 1) rag, approx. 20 in. x 24 in. paper Caution: 8 grams of black powder yield the maximum ranges. Do not use more than this amount. See improvised scale, Sec. VII, No. 8, for measuring. Procedure --------- Method I- If standard grenade is used: 1. Discard top of container. Make small hole in bottom. 2. Place black powder in paper. Tie end with string so contents cannot fall out. Place package in container. 3. Insert rag wadding into container. Pack tightly with CAUTION. 4. Measuring off a length of fuse that will give the desired delay. Thread this through hole in bottom of container so tat it renetrates into the black powder package. Note: If improvised fuse is used, be sure fuse fits loosely through hole in bottom of container. 5. Hold grenade safety lever and carefully withdraw safety pin from grenade. Insert grenade into container, lever end first. CAUTION: If grenade safety lever should be released for any reason, grenade will explode after normal delay time. 6. Bury container about 6 in. in the ground at 30 degree angle, bringing fuse up alongside container. Pack ground tightly around container. CAUTION: The tightly packed dirt helps to hold the tube together during the firing. DO not fire unless at least the bottom half of the container is buried in solidly packed dirt. Method II- If improvised pipe hand grenade is used: 1. Follow step 1 on above procedure. 2. Measure off a piece of fuse at least as long as the cardboard container. Tape one end of this to the fuse from the blasting cap in the improvised grenade. Be sure ends of fuse are in contact with each other. 3. Place free end of fuse and black powder on piece of paper. Tie ends with string so contents will not fall out. 4. Place package in tube. Insert rag wadding. Pack so it fits snugly. Place pipe hand grenade into tube. Be sure it fits snugly. 5. Insert fuse through hole in end of cardboard container. Be sure it goes into black powder package. Note: Cardboard container may be used for ony one firing. 6. Follow step 6 of method I. How to Use ---------- Light fuse when ready to fire. Fire Bottle launcher Sec. IV, No. 4 A device using 2 items (shotgun and chemical fire bottle) that can be used to start or place a fire 80 yards from launcher. Materials --------- standard 12 gauge shotgun or improvised shotgun (Sec. III, No. 2) improvised fire bottle (Sec. V, No. 1) tin can, about 4 in. in diameter and 5 1/2 in. high wood, about 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. nail, at least 3 in. nuts and bolts or nails, at least 2 1/2 in. long rag paper drill If standard shotgun is used: Hard wood stick, about the same lenght of the shotgun barrel and about 5/8 in. in diameter- stick need not to be round 2 washers (brass, steel, iron, etc.) having outside diameter of 5/8 in. one wood screw about 1 in. long rubber disk, 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather, cardboard, etc. may also be used) 12 gauge shorgun ammunition If improvised shotgun is used: Fuse, safety or improvised fast burning (Sec. VI, No. 7) hard wood stick, about the same length of the barrel and 3/4 in. in diameter black powder- 9 grams, See Sec. VII. No. 8) Procedure --------- Method I- If improvised shotgun is used: 1. Drill hole in center of wood block approx. 1 in. deep. Hole should have approx. the same diameter of the woden stick. 2. Drill 2 small holes on opposite sides of the wooden block. Hole should be large enough for bolts to pass through. 3. Fasten can to block with nuts and bolts. Note: Can may also be securely fastened to clock by hammering several nails through can and block. Do dot drill holes, and be careful not to split wood. 4. Place wooden stick into hole in wooden block. Drill small hole (same diameter as that of 3 in. nail) through wooden block and through wooden stick. Insert nail in hole. 5. Crumple paper and place in bottom of can. Place another piece of paper around fire bottle and insert into can. Use enough paper so that bottle will fit snugly. 6. Place safety fuse and black powder on paper. Tie each end with string. 7. Thread fuse through hole in plug. Place powder package in rear of shotgun. Screw plug finger tight into coupling. Note: Hole in plug may have to be enlarged for fuse. 8. Insert rag into front of cartridge. Pack rag against powder package with stick. USE CAUTION! Method II- If standard shotgun is used: 1. Follow steps 1 and 2, shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2. 2. Follow procedure of method I, steps 1-5. 3. Follow steps 9, 10, 11, shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2, using 1/3 of total propellant instead of 1/2. 4. Load cartridge in gun. CAUTION: Do not tilt muzzle downward. 2. Hold gun against ground at 45 degree angle and light fuse. Note: Steps 1 and 2, "How to Use" same for both standard and improvised shotguns. CAUTION: Severe burns may result if bottle shatters when fired. If possible, obtain a bottle identical to that being used as the fire bottle. Fill about 2/3 full of water and fire as above. If bottle shatters when fired instead of being launched intact, use a different type of bottle. Grenade Launchers Sec. IV, No. 5 A variety of grenade launchers can be fabricated from metal pipes and fittings. Ranges up to 660 yards can be obtained depending on length of tube, charge, number of grenades, and angle of firing. Materials --------- Metal pie, threaded on one end and approx. 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 14 in. to 4 ft. long, depending on range desired and number of grenades used. end cap to fit pipe black powder, 15 to 50 grams, approx 1 1/4 to 4 1/4 tablespoons (Sec. I, No. 3) safety fuse, fast burning improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) OR improvised electric bulb initiator (Sec. VI, No. 1) automobile light bulb is needed grenades- 1 to 6 rag(s) about 30 in. x 30 in. drill string Note: Examine pipe carefully to be sure there are no flaws or cracks. Procedure --------- Method I- If fuse is used: 1. Drill small hole through center of end cap. 2. Make small knot near one end of fuse. Place black powder and knotted end of fuse in paper and tie with string. 3. Thread fuse through hole in end cap and place package in end cap. Screw end cap onto pipe, being careful that black powder package is not caught between threads. 4. Roll rag wad so that it is about 6 in. long and has approx. the same diameter as the pipe. Push rolled rag into open end of pipe until it rests against black powder package. 5. Hold grenade safety lever in place and carefully withdraw safety pin. CAUTION: If grenade safety lever is released for any reason, the grenade will explode after the usual delay (4-5 sec.). 6. Holding safety lever in place, carefully push grenade into pipe, lever end first, until it rests against rag wad. 7. The following table list carious types of grenade launchers and their performance characteristics. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Desired range | No. of grenades | black powder | pipe length | firing angle ----------------|-------------------|--------------|-------------|------------- 250 m | 1 | 15 gm | 14" | 30 degrees 500 m | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 10 degrees 600 m (A) | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 30 degrees 200m | 6 (B) | 25 gm | 48" | 30 degrees ----------------|-------------------|--------------|-------------|------------- (A): For this range, an additional delay is required, see Sec. VI, No. 11& 12. (B): For multiple launcher, load as shown: (bullshit. Like this.) Note: Since performance of different black powder varies, fire several test rounds to determine the exact amount of powder necessary to achieve the desired range. Load in this order, from bottom: Black powder package, rolled rag (30x30), grenade, stuffed rag (20x20), grenade, stuffed rag (20x20), etc... How to Use ---------- 1. Bury at least 1/2 of the launcher pipe in the ground at desired angle. Open end should face the expected path of the enemy. Muzzle my be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dirt and/or leaves as camouflage. Be sure cardboard prevents dirt from entering pipe. Note: The 14 in. launcher may be hand held against the ground instead of being buried. 2. Light fuse when ready to fire. Method II- If electrical igniter is used: Note: Be sure bulb is in good operating condition. 1. Prepare electric bulb initiator as described in Sec. VI, No.1. 2. Place electric initiator and black powder charge in paper. Tie ends of paper with string. 3. Follow above procedure, steps 3 to end of Procedure. How to Use ---------- 1. Follow above How to Use, Step 1. 2. Connect leads to firing circuit. Close circuit when ready to fire. 60MM mortar projectile Launcher Sec. IV, No. 6 A device to launch 60MM mortar rounds using a metal pipe 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 4 ft. long as the launching tube. Materials --------- Mortar, 60MM projectile and charge increments metal pipe, 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 4 ft. long, threaded on one end threaded cap to fit pipe bolt, 1/8 in. in diameter and at least 1 in. long. two nuts to fit bolt file drill Procedure --------- 1. Drill hole 1/8 in. in diameter through center of end cap. 2. Round off end of bolt with file. 3. Place bolt through hole in end cap. Secure in place with nuts. =============== +=+ ()::+:+::: <- must protrude 1/4 inch on both sides +=+ ================ where: "=" is end cap "()" is bolt head "+" is nut ":" is bolt 4. Screw end cap onto pipe tightly. Tube is now ready for use. How to Use ---------- 1. Bury launching tube in ground at desired angle so that bottom of tube is at least 2 ft. underground. Adjust the number of increments in rear finned end of mortat projectile. See following table (shit) for launching angle and number of increments used. 2. When ready to fire, withdraw safety wire from mortar projectile. Drop projectile into launching tube, FINNED END FIRST. (yes, several assholes in the ARMY have actually put one down head first....BOOM! They ain't with us no more...) CAUTION: Be sure bore riding pin is in place when mortar projectile is dropped into tube. A live mortar round could explode in the tube if ithe fit is loose enough to permit the bore riding pin to come out partway. Also keep all body arts behind open end of tube when firing, as the mortar will fire once dropped down the tube. Table desired range (yds.) | max height (yards) | angle of elevation | charge (a) | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------| 150 | 25 | 40 | 0 | 300 | 50 | 40 | 1 | 700 | 150 | 40 | 2 | 1000 | 225 | 40 | 3 | 1500 | 300 | 40 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------| 125 | 75 | 60 | 0 | 300 | 125 | 60 | 1 | 550 | 250 | 60 | 2 | 1000 | 375 | 60 | 3 | 1440 | 600 | 60 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------| 75 | 100 | 80 | 0 | 150 | 200 | 80 | 1 | 300 | 350 | 80 | 2 | 400 | 600 | 80 | 3 | 550 | 750 | 80 | 4 | ----------------|--------------------|--------------------|----------------| (A): charge- number of increments Silent grenade launcher Sec. IV, No. 7 A completely silent grenade launcher can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell, pieces of pipe, pipe resucer, wooden dowels and a wine bottle cork. This produces a launcher that can propel a fire bottle in excess of 100 yards and a grenade in excess of 300 yards. After firing, all of the expanding gas in contained within the barrel. This principle of gas containment produces a completely silent weapon. Materials --------- 12 gauge shotgun shells launcher parts: 3/4 in. nominal size water or gas pipe, 30 in. long and threaded on both ends 3/4 in. steel pipe coupler 3/4 in. steel pipe plug sheet of wood 2 in. x 4 in. x 32 in. metal strap 1/4 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in. heavy twine (approx. 100 yards) 3 wood screws and screwdriver flat head nail (8D) for firing and safety pins saw, file and drill with assortment of bits shellac or lacquer rubber bands Gas containment parts: 3/4 in. to 1/2 in. steel pipe reducer 3/4 in. diameter, 1 1/2 in. long hard wooden dowel 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather or neoprene can be used in place of the rubber disk) vaseline Launching platfirm parts: hard wooden dowel 30 in. long x 1/2 in. in diameter tin can to fit over fire bottle or hand grenade wood platfirm base approx. 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. to which tin can and wooden dowel will be mounted nuts and bolts, or nails, at least 2 1/2 in. long Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings: A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws. B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12 gauge shotgun shell should fit into the pipe but the brass rim of the shell should not. C. Outside diameter of the pipe must be at least 1 in. D. Screw the 3/4 in. - 1/2 in. pipe resucer onto the front end of the pipe. Sighting through the rear end of the pipe, ensure that the reduced 1/2 in. center hole is centered with respect to the side walls of the 3/4 in. pipe. Remove the pipe reducer and set aside for later use. CAUTION: Do not use a pipe reducer that causes an offset center hole when it is tightened down on the end of the pipe. 2. Cut stock from wood using a saw: | <- approx. 32 in. -> | | <- 13 1/2 in. -> | one inch thick at butt ______________________________ _ ________________________| | <- 2 inches thick 4| | __| here; should i| | _______------ taper to 2x2in n|_ |_____________________________----------- 3. Cut 3/8 in. deep "V" groove int he top of the stock. 4. Turn the 3/4 in. pipe coupling onto the rear of the pipe. 5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and while still wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer. 6. Using a metal file, file the threaded end of the pipe plug flat. This allows a firm seat between the rear of the shotshell case and the end of the pipe plug. However, because of tapered screw threads on the pipe and pipe plug, the pipe coupler my prevent firm seating between the shotshell case and the pipe plug. If this is the case, fill the space between the pipe plug and the shotshell case with 1 in. steel washers with holes in the center of the firing pin to pass through. 7. Drill a hole through the center of the pipe plug large enough for a 8D nail to pass through. 8. Using the same size drill, drill a hole through the rear side of the pipe plug, perpendicular to and intersecting witht he central firing pin hole. This is going to be used as a safety for the firing pin. 9. Push an 8D nail through the central firing pin hole and cut off flat 1/32 in. past the end of the pipe plug or the end of the last 1 in. steel washer. 10. Using a file, notch the firing pin nail where the side hole intersects with the central firing pin hole and file the end round. 11. Using a serparate 8D nail, push it through the side hole. Note where it intersents the firing pin hole and file it flat, to half its normal thickness, from that point until it passes through the other side. 12. Insert the firing pin into the central firing pin hole, aligning the slot in the firing pin with he safety hole in the side of the pipe plug. 13. Insert the safety nail through the side hole so that it interlocks with the central firing pin. Bend the protruding end of the safety nail around the end pipe plug to ensure that the firing pin is locked into place. 14. Insert steel washers, if necessary, and screw end plug tightly into pipe coupler. 15. Bend a 4 in. metal strap into an "L" shape and drill a hole for the side pivot screw to pass through. Notch the metal strap on the long side, 1/2 in. from the bend. | <- 1 1/2 in.->| _______________ |_____________ | /| | ____/ | | bend | | | | 1/16 in.->| |<- |_| |.5 in| |*| "*" = notch should go in 1/8 in. _____ __ | | |-- 1/2 in. > | -- | | | | | | | | | | | | | o | -- |_____| __|-- 1/4 in. |__| | 1/4 in. 16. Position the metal strap on the stock sp that the top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to the stock using a wood pivot screw. 17. Place a screw on each side of the stock about 4 in. in front of the metal strap. Pass rubber bands through the notch in the metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock. 18. Two gas containment pistons should be made in the following manner: A. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wood dowel to a length of 1 1/2 in. Round the forward edges of the dowel off with file. B. Attach a 3/4 in. diameter, 1/4 in. thick rubber or leather washer to the rearend of the wooden dowel with a thumb tack. If rubber or leather of the proper thickness is not available, the washer can be built up to 1/4 in. thick with successive layers of thin rubber or leather. C. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork to a length of 1 1/2 in. D. Set both pistons aside for later use. 19. A launching platform should be made in the following manner: A. Drill a 1/2 in. hole approx. 1 in. deep in the center of the wood block. The 1/2 in. diameter, 30 in. long hard wooden dowel is to fir into this hole. B. Drill two 1/4 in. holes on opposite sides of the wooden support block. These holes should be drilled clear through the block for bolts to pass through. C. Using the supporting block as a template, mark the bolt holes on the bottom of a tin can which is large enought to hold either a fire bottle or hand grenade, then drill the two holes in the bottom of the can. Secure the can to the supporting block by placing 1/4 in. bolts through the bottom of the can and the block, securing with nuts. D. Push the 30 in. long, 1/2 in. diameter wooden dowel into the 1 in. deep hole in the bottom of the supporting block. Secure in place by driving a nail through the supporting block and into the center of the wooden dowel. 20. Prepare a 12 gauge shotgun shell in the following manner: A. Remove crimp from the shell with a pen knife. Pour shot from shell and remove the wads and plastic liner if present. B. Empty the propellant onto a folded piece of paper. Divide the propellant into thirds. Replace 2/3 of the propellant back into the shell case. C. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads back into the shell casing. If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper or cotton into the shell case and pack tightly. How to Use ---------- 1. To load: A. Remoove the firing pin plug from the rear of the pipe coupler. B. Insert the specially loaded 12 gauge shotgun into the rear end of the pipe. C. Insert steel washers if necessary and screw the pipe plug back into the rear pipe coupler until it seats against the base of the shell. D. Cover the 3/4 in. wooden dowel (gas containment piston) with Vaseline and insert in the forward end of the barrel. Using the launching platform as a ramrod, push the piston down against the shotgun shell in the rear of the launcher. E. Cover the 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork with Vaseline and press down against the wooden piston. F. Secure the 3/4 in. to 1/2 in. pipe reducer tightly to the forward end of the pipe barrel. G. Insert the 1/2 in. x 30 in. wooden dowel launching platform into the barrel through the center hole of the pipe reducer and seat it against the cork secondary gas seal. H. Isert fire bottle, hand grenade, or pipe bombs into the tin can on the end of the launching platform. Note: If a fire bottle is used, crumple paper and place in the bottom of the can. wrap more paper around the fire bottle and insert into the can. Use enough paper so the bottle will fit snugly. 2. To fire: A. Place stock of launcher against the ground and position the launcher at various degrees of elevation, in relation to ground level, so that variations of ranges can be achieved. B. Pull firing strap back with thumb. When ready to fire, release strap. Chemical Fire bottle Sec. V, No. 1 This incendiary is self igniting on target impact. Materials Source --------- ------ Sulfuric acid motor vehicles- batteries materials processing, industrial plants gasoline motor fuel potassium chlorate drug store sugar food store glass bottle with stopper (1 qt. approx.) small bottle or jar with lid rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newpaper) string or rubber bands Procedure --------- 1. Sulfuric acid must be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container should be oven glass or enamel-ware. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2. Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. 3. Pour gasoline into the large (1 qt.) bottle until it is approx. 2/3 full. 4. Add concentrated sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1 to 2 in. from the top. Place the stopper in the mouth of the bottle. 5. Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. CAUTION: If this is NOT done, the bottle may be dangerous to handle during use. 6. Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string ot fasten with rubber bands. 7. Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup of sugar in one cup of boiling water. 8. Allow the solution to cool, pout into the small bottle and cap slightly. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle. How to Use ---------- 1. Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution has dried. However, when dry, the sugar-Potassium nitrate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. 2. Throw ot launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the acid in the gasoline will react with the chlorate- sugar mixture annd then ignite the gasoline. Igniter from book matches Sec. V, No. 2 This is a hot igniter made from paper book matches for use with molotov cocktails and other incendiaries. Materials --------- paper book matches adhesive or friction tape Procedure --------- 1. Remove the staple(s) from match book and separate matches from cover. 2. Fold and tape one row of matches. 3. Shape the cover into a tube with striking surface on the inside and tape. Make sure the folded cover will fit tightly around the taped match heads. Leave cover open at opposite end for insertion of the matches. 4. Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom ends are exposed about 3.4 in. 5. Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it laps over about 1 in,; tape in place. Use with Molotov Cocktail ------------------------- Tap the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail. Grasp the "cover end tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite. General Use ----------- The book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse cords, and other similar items requiring hot ignition. CAUTION: Store matches and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or plastic bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite. Mechanically Initiated fire bottle Sec. V, No. 3 The mechanically initiated fire bottle is an incendiary device which ignites when thrown against a hd surface. Materials --------- glass jar or short neck bottle with a leakproof lid or stopper tin can or similar container just large enough to fit over the lid of the jar coil spring (compression) approx. 1/2 the diameter of the can and 1 1/2 times as long gasoline four (4) "blue tip" matches (I think they are called Ohio kitchen matches) flat stick or piece of metal roughly 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in. wire or heavy twine adhesive tape Procedure --------- 1. Draw or scratch two lines around the can- one 3/4 in. and the other 1 1/4 in. from the open end. 2. Cut 2 slots on opposite sides of the tin can at the line farthest from the open end. Make slots large enough for the flat stick or piece of metal to pass through. 3. Punch 2 small holes just below the rim of the open end of the can. 4. Tape blue tip matches together in pairs. The distance between the match heads should equal the inside diameter of the can. Two pairs are sufficient. 5. Attach paired matches to second and third coils of the spring, using thin wire. 6. Insert the end of the spring opposite the matches into the tin can. 7. Compress the spring until the end with the matches passes the slot in the can. Pass the flat stick or piece of metal through slots in can to hold spring in place. This acts as a safety device. 8. Puch many closely packed small holes between the lines marked on the can to form a striking surface for the matches. Be careful to not seriously deform the can. 9. Fill the jar with gasoline and cap tightly. 10. Turn can over and place over the jar so that the safety stick rests on the lid of the jar. 11. Pass wire or twine around the bottom of the jar. Thread ends through the holes in can and bind tightly to jar. 12. Tape wire or cord to jar near the bottom. How to Use ---------- 1. Carefully withdraw flat safety stick. 2. Throw jar at hard surface. CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE SAFETY STICK UNTIL READY TO THROW FIRE BOTTLE. The safety stick, when in place, prevents ignition of the fire bottle if it should accidently be broken. Gelled flame Fuels Sec. V, No. 4 Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline for use in incediary devices such as fire bottles. This type fuel adheres more readily to the target and produces greater heat concentration. Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonly avilable materials. The methods are divided into the following catagories based on the major ingredient: 4.1 Lye systems 4.2 Lye-alcohol 4.3 Soap-alcohol systems 4.4 Egg white systems 4.5 Latex systems 4.6 Wax systems 4.7 Animal blood systems I will type this one warning ONE TIME only! CAUTION: Never at ANY time should you light up a cigarette while mixing flame fuels! No Smoking! Go smokeless! Lye Systems Sec. V, No. 4.1 Lye (also known as caustic soda or Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with powdered rosin ot castor oil to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. Note: This fuel is not suitable for use in the chemical (sulfuric acid) type of fire bottle (Sec. V, No. 1). The acid will react with the lye and break down the gel. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- ------------- 60 gasoline motor fuel gas station 2 (flake) or lye drain cleaner, food, drug store 1 (powder) making soap 15 rosin manufacturing naval stores paint & varnish industry or castor oil medicine food and drug stores Procedure --------- 1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (Do not use an aluminum container. 2. If rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces. 3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for for about five (5) minutes to mix thoroughly. 4. In a second container (not aluminum) add lye to an equal volume of water slowly while stirring. 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens (about 1 minute). Note: The sample will eventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring additional gasoline. Lye-Alcohol Systems Sec. V, No. 4.2 Lye (also known as caustic soad or Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with alcohol and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient How Used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- ------------- 60 gasoline motor fuel gas station 2 (flake) or lye drain cleaner food, drug store 1 (powder) making of soap 3 ethyl alcohol whiskey medicine, liquor store Note: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can be used, but they produce softer gels. 14 tallow food, soap making fat rendered by cooking the meat of animal Note: The following can be substituted for the tallow: A. wool grease (lanolin) (very good)- fat extracted from sheep wool. B. castor oil (good). C. Any fish oil. D. Butter or oleo margarine E. Any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc.) It is necessary when using substitutes E and D to double the given amount of fat and lye for satisfactory bodying. Procedure --------- 1. Pour gasoline into bottle, jar or other container. (Do not use an aluminum container) 2. Add tallow or substitute to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 min. to dissolve fat. 3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture. 4. In a separate container (Not aluminum) slowly add lye to an equal amount of water. Mixture should be stirred constantly while adding lye. 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until thickened (about 1/2 hour). Note: The mixture will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline. Soap-Alcohol system Sec. V, No. 4.3 Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to taget surfaces. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ----------- -------- ------------- 36 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars 1 ethyl alcohol whiskey liquor, drug store Note: Methyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can be substituted for the whiskey. 20 (powder) or laundry soap washing food store 28 (flake) clothes Note: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the container or wrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. These cannot be used. Procedure --------- 1. If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife. 2. Pour alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle or other containr and mix thoroughly. 3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix and stir occasionally until thickened (about 15 minutes). Egg systems Sec. V, No. 4.4 The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surface. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- ------------- 85 gasoline motor fuel gas station 14 egg whites food food store, farm Any one of the following: 1 table salt food sea water natural brine, food str. 3 ground coffee food coffee plant food store 3 dried tea leaves tea plant, food store 3 cocoa food cacao tree food store 2 sugar sweetening sugar cane, food store 1 saltpeter pyrotechnics drug store (potassium explosives natural deposts nitrate) matches 1 epsom salts medicine natural deposits mineral water kieserite industrial procs. drug, food store 2 washing soda washing cleaner food store (sal soda) photography drug store medicine photography store 1 1/2 baking soda baking food store manufacture of drug store beverages, mineral water and medicines 1 1/2 aspirin medicine drug, food store Procedure --------- 1. Separate the egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a disk and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon. Note: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white. If egg yolk gets into the egg white, discard the egg. 2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline. 3. Add the salt or other additive to the mixture and stir occasionally until a gel forms (about 5-10 minutes). Note: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot (65 degree C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature. (Do not heat the gelled fuel containing coffee). Latex systems Sec. V, No. 4.5 Any milky while plant fluid is a potential source of latex which can be used to gel gasoline. Materials --------- Ingredient How used Common source ---------- -------- ------------- gasoline motor fuel, solvent gas station, motor vehicle latex, commercial paints, adhesives natural or from tree or plant, rubber cement One of the following acids: acetic acid salad dressing food stores (vinegar) developing film fermented apple cider photographic supply sulfuric acid storage batteries motor vehicles (oil of vitriol) materials processing industrial plants hydrochloric acid petroleum wells hardware store (muriatic acid) pickling and metal industrial plants cleaning industrial processes Note: If acids are not available, use acid salt (aluminum sulfates and chlorides other than sodium or potassiu). The formic acid from crushed red ants can also be used. Procedure --------- 1. With commercial rubber latex: A. Place 7 parts by volume of latex and 92 parts by volume of gasoline in bottle. Cap bottle and shake to mix well. B. Add 1 part by volume vinegar (or other acid) and shake until gel forms. 2. With natural latex: A. Natural latex should form lumps as it comes from the plant. If lumps do not form, add a small amount of acid to the latex. B. Strain off the latex lumps and allow to dry in air. C. Place 20 parts by volume of latex in bottle and add 80 parts by volume of gasoline. Cover bottles and allow to stand until a swollen gel mass is obtained (2 to 3 days). Wax systems Sec. V, No. 4.6 Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient How Used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- ------------- 80 gasoline motor fuel, gas station, vehicle solvent Any one of the following: 20 Ozocerite leather polish natural deposits mineral wax sealing wax general stores fossil wax candles department store ceresin wax crayons waxed paper textile sizing beeswax furniture and honeycomb of bee floor waxes general store artificial fruit department store lithographing wax paper textile finish candles bayberry wax candles natural form myrtle wax soaps myrica berries leather polish general store medicine department store Procedure --------- 1. Obtaining wax from Natural sources: Plants and berries are potential sources of natural waxes. Place the plants and/or berries in boiling water. The natural waxes will melt. Let the water cool. The natural waxes will form a solid layer on the water surface. Skim off the solid wax and let dry. With natural waxes which has suspended matter when melted, screen the wax through a cloth. 2. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed in a hot water bath. 3. Add gasoline to the bottle. 4. When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath to cool slowly to room temp. Note: If a gel does not form, add additional wax, (up to 40 % by volume) and repeat the above steps. if no gel forms with 40 % wax,, make a lye solution by dissolving a small amount of lye (sodium hydroxide) in a equal amount of water. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and shake bottle until get forms. Animal blood systems Sec. V, No. 4.7 Animal blood can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. Materials --------- Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source --------------- ---------- -------- ------------- 68 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars 30 animal blood food, medicine slaughter house serum natural habitat Any one of the following: 2 salt food, sea water industrial natural brine processes food store ground coffee food coffee plant beverage food store dried tea leaves food store sugar sweetening sugar cane food store lime mortar from calcium carbonate plaster hardware store medicine drug store ceramics garden supply steel making baking soda baking food store beverages drug store industrail prcs. epsom salts medicine drug store mineral water natural deposits food store Procedure --------- 1. Preparation of animal blood serum: A. Slit animal's jugular vein. Hang upside down to drain. B. Place coagulated (lumpy) blood in a cloth or a screen and catch the red fluid (serum) that drains through. C. Store in cool place if possible. CAUTION: DO not get aged blood serum into an open cut. This can cause infections. 2. Pour blood serum into jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline. 3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir until a gel forms. X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662 My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne d'Fault 510-658-8078 New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-864-DORK The Shrine Tom Joseph 408-747-0778 "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X ## Atomic Bomb http://jrandell.hpl.hp.com:28209/junk/atomic-bomb.html -------------------------------- File courtesy of Outlaw Labs -------------------------------- ============================================================================ ------------------------------------------------- - Documentation and Diagrams of the Atomic Bomb - ------------------------------------------------- ============================================================================ ______________ / \ <-} DISCLAIMER {-> \______________/ The information contained in this file is strictly for academic use alone. Outlaw Labs will bear no responsibility for any use otherwise. It would be wise to note that the personnel who design and construct these devices are skilled physicists and are more knowledgeable in these matters than any layperson can ever hope to be... Should a layperson attempt to build a device such as this, chances are s/he would probably kill his/herself not by a nuclear detonation, but rather through radiation exposure. We here at Outlaw Labs do not recommend using this file beyond the realm of casual or academic curiosity. ============================================================================ ----------------------- -+ Table of Contents +- ----------------------- I. The History of the Atomic Bomb ------------------------------ A). Development (The Manhattan Project) B). Detonation 1). Hiroshima 2). Nagasaki 3). Byproducts of atomic detonations 4). Blast Zones II. Nuclear Fission/Nuclear Fusion ------------------------------ A). Fission (A-Bomb) & Fusion (H-Bomb) B). U-235, U-238 and Plutonium III. The Mechanism of The Bomb ------------------------- A). Altimeter B). Air Pressure Detonator C). Detonating Head(s) D). Explosive Charge(s) E). Neutron Deflector F). Uranium & Plutonium G). Lead Shield H). Fuses IV. The Diagram of The Bomb ----------------------- A). The Uranium Bomb B). The Plutonium Bomb ============================================================================ -------------------------------- File courtesy of Outlaw Labs -------------------------------- I. The History of the Atomic Bomb ------------------------------ On August 2nd 1939, just before the beginning of World War II, Albert Einstein wrote to then President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Einstein and several other scientists told Roosevelt of efforts in Nazi Germany to purify U-235 with which might in turn be used to build an atomic bomb. It was shortly thereafter that the United States Government began the serious undertaking known only then as the Manhattan Project. Simply put, the Manhattan Project was committed to expedient research and production that would produce a viable atomic bomb. The most complicated issue to be addressed was the production of ample amounts of `enriched' uranium to sustain a chain reaction. At the time, Uranium-235 was very hard to extract. In fact, the ratio of conversion from Uranium ore to Uranium metal is 500:1. An additional drawback is that the 1 part of Uranium that is finally refined from the ore consists of over 99% Uranium-238, which is practically useless for an atomic bomb. To make it even more difficult, U-235 and U-238 are precisely similar in their chemical makeup. This proved to be as much of a challenge as separating a solution of sucrose from a solution of glucose. No ordinary chemical extraction could separate the two isotopes. Only mechanical methods could effectively separate U-235 from U-238. Several scientists at Columbia University managed to solve this dilemma. A massive enrichment laboratory/plant was constructed at Oak Ridge, Tennessee. H.C. Urey, along with his associates and colleagues at Columbia University, devised a system that worked on the principle of gaseous diffusion. Following this process, Ernest O. Lawrence (inventor of the Cyclotron) at the University of California in Berkeley implemented a process involving magnetic separation of the two isotopes. Following the first two processes, a gas centrifuge was used to further separate the lighter U-235 from the heavier non-fissionable U-238 by their mass. Once all of these procedures had been completed, all that needed to be done was to put to the test the entire concept behind atomic fission. [For more information on these procedures of refining Uranium, see Section 3.] Over the course of six years, ranging from 1939 to 1945, more than 2 billion dollars were spent on the Manhattan Project. The formulas for refining Uranium and putting together a working bomb were created and seen to their logical ends by some of the greatest minds of our time. Among these people who unleashed the power of the atomic bomb was J. Robert Oppenheimer. Oppenheimer was the major force behind the Manhattan Project. He literally ran the show and saw to it that all of the great minds working on this project made their brainstorms work. He oversaw the entire project from its conception to its completion. Finally the day came when all at Los Alamos would find out whether or not The Gadget (code-named as such during its development) was either going to be the colossal dud of the century or perhaps end the war. It all came down to a fateful morning of midsummer, 1945. At 5:29:45 (Mountain War Time) on July 16th, 1945, in a white blaze that stretched from the basin of the Jemez Mountains in northern New Mexico to the still-dark skies, The Gadget ushered in the Atomic Age. The light of the explosion then turned orange as the atomic fireball began shooting upwards at 360 feet per second, reddening and pulsing as it cooled. The characteristic mushroom cloud of radioactive vapor materialized at 30,000 feet. Beneath the cloud, all that remained of the soil at the blast site were fragments of jade green radioactive glass. ...All of this caused by the heat of the reaction. The brilliant light from the detonation pierced the early morning skies with such intensity that residents from a faraway neighboring community would swear that the sun came up twice that day. Even more astonishing is that a blind girl saw the flash 120 miles away. Upon witnessing the explosion, reactions among the people who created it were mixed. Isidor Rabi felt that the equilibrium in nature had been upset -- as if humankind had become a threat to the world it inhabited. J. Robert Oppenheimer, though ecstatic about the success of the project, quoted a remembered fragment from Bhagavad Gita. "I am become Death," he said, "the destroyer of worlds." Ken Bainbridge, the test director, told Oppenheimer, "Now we're all sons of bitches." Several participants, shortly after viewing the results, signed petitions against loosing the monster they had created, but their protests fell on deaf ears. As it later turned out, the Jornada del Muerto of New Mexico was not the last site on planet Earth to experience an atomic explosion. As many know, atomic bombs have been used only twice in warfare. The first and foremost blast site of the atomic bomb is Hiroshima. A Uranium bomb (which weighed in at over 4 & 1/2 tons) nicknamed "Little Boy" was dropped on Hiroshima August 6th, 1945. The Aioi Bridge, one of 81 bridges connecting the seven-branched delta of the Ota River, was the aiming point of the bomb. Ground Zero was set at 1,980 feet. At 0815 hours, the bomb was dropped from the Enola Gay. It missed by only 800 feet. At 0816 hours, in the flash of an instant, 66,000 people were killed and 69,000 people were injured by a 10 kiloton atomic explosion. The point of total vaporization from the blast measured one half of a mile in diameter. Total destruction ranged at one mile in diameter. Severe blast damage carried as far as two miles in diameter. At two and a half miles, everything flammable in the area burned. The remaining area of the blast zone was riddled with serious blazes that stretched out to the final edge at a little over three miles in diameter. [See diagram below for blast ranges from the atomic blast.] On August 9th 1945, Nagasaki fell to the same treatment as Hiroshima. Only this time, a Plutonium bomb nicknamed "Fat Man" was dropped on the city. Even though the "Fat Man" missed by over a mile and a half, it still leveled nearly half the city. Nagasaki's population dropped in one split-second from 422,000 to 383,000. 39,000 were killed, over 25,000 were injured. That blast was less than 10 kilotons as well. Estimates from physicists who have studied each atomic explosion state that the bombs that were used had utilized only 1/10th of 1 percent of their respective explosive capabilities. While the mere explosion from an atomic bomb is deadly enough, its destructive ability doesn't stop there. Atomic fallout creates another hazard as well. The rain that follows any atomic detonation is laden with radioactive particles. Many survivors of the Hiroshima and Nagasaki blasts succumbed to radiation poisoning due to this occurance. The atomic detonation also has the hidden lethal surprise of affecting the future generations of those who live through it. Leukemia is among the greatest of afflictions that are passed on to the offspring of survivors. While the main purpose behind the atomic bomb is obvious, there are many by-products that have been brought into consideration in the use of all weapons atomic. With one small atomic bomb, a massive area's communications, travel and machinery will grind to a dead halt due to the EMP (Electro- Magnetic Pulse) that is radiated from a high-altitude atomic detonation. These high-level detonations are hardly lethal, yet they deliver a serious enough EMP to scramble any and all things electronic ranging from copper wires all the way up to a computer's CPU within a 50 mile radius. At one time, during the early days of The Atomic Age, it was a popular notion that one day atomic bombs would one day be used in mining operations and perhaps aid in the construction of another Panama Canal. Needless to say, it never came about. Instead, the military applications of atomic destruction increased. Atomic tests off of the Bikini Atoll and several other sites were common up until the Nuclear Test Ban Treaty was introduced. Photos of nuclear test sites here in the United States can be obtained through the Freedom of Information Act. ============================================================================ - Breakdown of the Atomic Bomb's Blast Zones - ---------------------------------------------- . . . . . . . . [5] [4] [5] . . . . . . . . . . [3] _ [3] . . . [2] . . . _._ . . .~ ~. . . . [4] . .[2]. [1] .[2]. . [4] . . . . . . . ~-.-~ . . . [2] . . . [3] - [3] . . . . . . ~ ~ . ~ [5] . [4] . [5] . . . . . . ============================================================================ - Diagram Outline - --------------------- [1] Vaporization Point ------------------ Everything is vaporized by the atomic blast. 98% fatalities. Overpress=25 psi. Wind velocity=320 mph. [2] Total Destruction ----------------- All structures above ground are destroyed. 90% fatalities. Overpress=17 psi. Wind velocity=290 mph. [3] Severe Blast Damage ------------------- Factories and other large-scale building collapse. Severe damage to highway bridges. Rivers sometimes flow countercurrent. 65% fatalities, 30% injured. Overpress=9 psi. Wind velocity=260 mph. [4] Severe Heat Damage ------------------ Everything flammable burns. People in the area suffocate due to the fact that most available oxygen is consumed by the fires. 50% fatalities, 45% injured. Overpress=6 psi. Wind velocity=140 mph. [5] Severe Fire & Wind Damage ------------------------- Residency structures are severely damaged. People are blown around. 2nd and 3rd-degree burns suffered by most survivors. 15% dead. 50% injured. Overpress=3 psi. Wind velocity=98 mph. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Blast Zone Radii - ---------------------- [3 different bomb types] ____________________________________________________________________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ | | | | | | | -[10 KILOTONS]- | | -[1 MEGATON]- | | -[20 MEGATONS]- | |----------------------| |----------------------| |----------------------| | Airburst - 1,980 ft | | Airburst - 8,000 ft | | Airburst - 17,500 ft | |______________________| |______________________| |______________________| | | | | | | | [1] 0.5 miles | | [1] 2.5 miles | | [1] 8.75 miles | | [2] 1 mile | | [2] 3.75 miles | | [2] 14 miles | | [3] 1.75 miles | | [3] 6.5 miles | | [3] 27 miles | | [4] 2.5 miles | | [4] 7.75 miles | | [4] 31 miles | | [5] 3 miles | | [5] 10 miles | | [5] 35 miles | | | | | | | |______________________| |______________________| |______________________| ____________________________________________________________________________ ============================================================================ -End of section 1- -------------------------------- File courtesy of Outlaw Labs -------------------------------- II. Nuclear Fission/Nuclear Fusion ------------------------------ There are 2 types of atomic explosions that can be facilitated by U-235; fission and fusion. Fission, simply put, is a nuclear reaction in which an atomic nucleus splits into fragments, usually two fragments of comparable mass, with the evolution of approximately 100 million to several hundred million volts of energy. This energy is expelled explosively and violently in the atomic bomb. A fusion reaction is invariably started with a fission reaction, but unlike the fission reaction, the fusion (Hydrogen) bomb derives its power from the fusing of nuclei of various hydrogen isotopes in the formation of helium nuclei. Being that the bomb in this file is strictly atomic, the other aspects of the Hydrogen Bomb will be set aside for now. The massive power behind the reaction in an atomic bomb arises from the forces that hold the atom together. These forces are akin to, but not quite the same as, magnetism. Atoms are comprised of three sub-atomic particles. Protons and neutrons cluster together to form the nucleus (central mass) of the atom while the electrons orbit the nucleus much like planets around a sun. It is these particles that determine the stability of the atom. Most natural elements have very stable atoms which are impossible to split except by bombardment by particle accelerators. For all practical purposes, the one true element whose atoms can be split comparatively easily is the metal Uranium. Uranium's atoms are unusually large, henceforth, it is hard for them to hold together firmly. This makes Uranium-235 an exceptional candidate for nuclear fission. Uranium is a heavy metal, heavier than gold, and not only does it have the largest atoms of any natural element, the atoms that comprise Uranium have far more neutrons than protons. This does not enhance their capacity to split, but it does have an important bearing on their capacity to facilitate an explosion. There are two isotopes of Uranium. Natural Uranium consists mostly of isotope U-238, which has 92 protons and 146 neutrons (92+146=238). Mixed with this isotope, one will find a 0.6% accumulation of U-235, which has only 143 neutrons. This isotope, unlike U-238, has atoms that can be split, thus it is termed "fissionable" and useful in making atomic bombs. Being that U-238 is neutron-heavy, it reflects neutrons, rather than absorbing them like its brother isotope, U-235. (U-238 serves no function in an atomic reaction, but its properties provide an excellent shield for the U-235 in a constructed bomb as a neutron reflector. This helps prevent an accidental chain reaction between the larger U-235 mass and its `bullet' counterpart within the bomb. Also note that while U-238 cannot facilitate a chain-reaction, it can be neutron-saturated to produce Plutonium (Pu-239). Plutonium is fissionable and can be used in place of Uranium-235 {albeit, with a different model of detonator} in an atomic bomb. [See Sections 3 & 4 of this file.]) Both isotopes of Uranium are naturally radioactive. Their bulky atoms disintegrate over a period of time. Given enough time, (over 100,000 years or more) Uranium will eventually lose so many particles that it will turn into the metal lead. However, this process can be accelerated. This process is known as the chain reaction. Instead of disintegrating slowly, the atoms are forcibly split by neutrons forcing their way into the nucleus. A U-235 atom is so unstable that a blow from a single neutron is enough to split it and henceforth bring on a chain reaction. This can happen even when a critical mass is present. When this chain reaction occurs, the Uranium atom splits into two smaller atoms of different elements, such as Barium and Krypton. When a U-235 atom splits, it gives off energy in the form of heat and Gamma radiation, which is the most powerful form of radioactivity and the most lethal. When this reaction occurs, the split atom will also give off two or three of its `spare' neutrons, which are not needed to make either Barium or Krypton. These spare neutrons fly out with sufficient force to split other atoms they come in contact with. [See chart below] In theory, it is necessary to split only one U-235 atom, and the neutrons from this will split other atoms, which will split more...so on and so forth. This progression does not take place arithmetically, but geometrically. All of this will happen within a millionth of a second. The minimum amount to start a chain reaction as described above is known as SuperCritical Mass. The actual mass needed to facilitate this chain reaction depends upon the purity of the material, but for pure U-235, it is 110 pounds (50 kilograms), but no Uranium is never quite pure, so in reality more will be needed. Uranium is not the only material used for making atomic bombs. Another material is the element Plutonium, in its isotope Pu-239. Plutonium is not found naturally (except in minute traces) and is always made from Uranium. The only way to produce Plutonium from Uranium is to process U-238 through a nuclear reactor. After a period of time, the intense radioactivity causes the metal to pick up extra particles, so that more and more of its atoms turn into Plutonium. Plutonium will not start a fast chain reaction by itself, but this difficulty is overcome by having a neutron source, a highly radioactive material that gives off neutrons faster than the Plutonium itself. In certain types of bombs, a mixture of the elements Beryllium and Polonium is used to bring about this reaction. Only a small piece is needed. The material is not fissionable in and of itself, but merely acts as a catalyst to the greater reaction. ============================================================================ - Diagram of a Chain Reaction - ------------------------------- | | | | [1]------------------------------> o . o o . . o_0_o . <-----------------------[2] . o 0 o . . o o . | \|/ ~ . o o. .o o . [3]-----------------------> . o_0_o"o_0_o . . o 0 o~o 0 o . . o o.".o o . | / | \ |/_ | _\| ~~ | ~~ | o o | o o [4]-----------------> o_0_o | o_0_o <---------------[5] o~0~o | o~0~o o o ) | ( o o / o \ / [1] \ / \ / \ / \ o [1] [1] o . o o . . o o . . o o . . o_0_o . . o_0_o . . o_0_o . . o 0 o . <-[2]-> . o 0 o . <-[2]-> . o 0 o . . o o . . o o . . o o . / | \ |/_ \|/ _\| ~~ ~ ~~ . o o. .o o . . o o. .o o . . o o. .o o . . o_0_o"o_0_o . . o_0_o"o_0_o . . o_0_o"o_0_o . . o 0 o~o 0 o . <--[3]--> . o 0 o~o 0 o . <--[3]--> . o 0 o~o 0 o . . o o.".o o . . o o.".o o . . o o.".o o . . | . . | . . | . / | \ / | \ / | \ : | : : | : : | : : | : : | : : | : \:/ | \:/ \:/ | \:/ \:/ | \:/ ~ | ~ ~ | ~ ~ | ~ [4] o o | o o [5] [4] o o | o o [5] [4] o o | o o [5] o_0_o | o_0_o o_0_o | o_0_o o_0_o | o_0_o o~0~o | o~0~o o~0~o | o~0~o o~0~o | o~0~o o o ) | ( o o o o ) | ( o o o o ) | ( o o / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / o \ / o \ / o \ / [1] \ / [1] \ / [1] \ o o o o o o [1] [1] [1] [1] [1] [1] ============================================================================ - Diagram Outline - --------------------- [1] - Incoming Neutron [2] - Uranium-235 [3] - Uranium-236 [4] - Barium Atom [5] - Krypton Atom =========================================================================== -End of section 2- -Diagrams & Documentation of the Atomic Bomb- -------------------------------- File courtesy of Outlaw Labs -------------------------------- III. The Mechanism of The Bomb ------------------------- Altimeter --------- An ordinary aircraft altimeter uses a type of Aneroid Barometer which measures the changes in air pressure at different heights. However, changes in air pressure due to the weather can adversely affect the altimeter's readings. It is far more favorable to use a radar (or radio) altimeter for enhanced accuracy when the bomb reaches Ground Zero. While Frequency Modulated-Continuous Wave (FM CW) is more complicated, the accuracy of it far surpasses any other type of altimeter. Like simple pulse systems, signals are emitted from a radar aerial (the bomb), bounced off the ground and received back at the bomb's altimeter. This pulse system applies to the more advanced altimeter system, only the signal is continuous and centered around a high frequency such as 4200 MHz. This signal is arranged to steadily increase at 200 MHz per interval before dropping back to its original frequency. As the descent of the bomb begins, the altimeter transmitter will send out a pulse starting at 4200 MHz. By the time that pulse has returned, the altimeter transmitter will be emitting a higher frequency. The difference depends on how long the pulse has taken to do the return journey. When these two frequencies are mixed electronically, a new frequency (the difference between the two) emerges. The value of this new frequency is measured by the built-in microchips. This value is directly proportional to the distance travelled by the original pulse, so it can be used to give the actual height. In practice, a typical FM CW radar today would sweep 120 times per second. Its range would be up to 10,000 feet (3000 m) over land and 20,000 feet (6000 m) over sea, since sound reflections from water surfaces are clearer. The accuracy of these altimeters is within 5 feet (1.5 m) for the higher ranges. Being that the ideal airburst for the atomic bomb is usually set for 1,980 feet, this error factor is not of enormous concern. The high cost of these radar-type altimeters has prevented their use in commercial applications, but the decreasing cost of electronic components should make them competitive with barometric types before too long. Air Pressure Detonator ---------------------- The air pressure detonator can be a very complex mechanism, but for all practical purposes, a simpler model can be used. At high altitudes, the air is of lesser pressure. As the altitude drops, the air pressure increases. A simple piece of very thin magnetized metal can be used as an air pressure detonator. All that is needed is for the strip of metal to have a bubble of extremely thin metal forged in the center and have it placed directly underneath the electrical contact which will trigger the conventional explosive detonation. Before setting the strip in place, push the bubble in so that it will be inverted. Once the air pressure has achieved the desired level, the magnetic bubble will snap back into its original position and strike the contact, thus completing the circuit and setting off the explosive(s). Detonating Head --------------- The detonating head (or heads, depending on whether a Uranium or Plutonium bomb is being used as a model) that is seated in the conventional explosive charge(s) is similar to the standard-issue blasting cap. It merely serves as a catalyst to bring about a greater explosion. Calibration of this device is essential. Too small of a detonating head will only cause a colossal dud that will be doubly dangerous since someone's got to disarm and re-fit the bomb with another detonating head. (an added measure of discomfort comes from the knowledge that the conventional explosive may have detonated with insufficient force to weld the radioactive metals. This will cause a supercritical mass that could go off at any time.) The detonating head will receive an electric charge from the either the air pressure detonator or the radar altimeter's coordinating detonator, depending on what type of system is used. The Du Pont company makes rather excellent blasting caps that can be easily modified to suit the required specifications. Conventional Explosive Charge(s) -------------------------------- This explosive is used to introduce (and weld) the lesser amount of Uranium to the greater amount within the bomb's housing. [The amount of pressure needed to bring this about is unknown and possibly classified by the United States Government for reasons of National Security] Plastic explosives work best in this situation since they can be manipulated to enable both a Uranium bomb and a Plutonium bomb to detonate. One very good explosive is Urea Nitrate. The directions on how to make Urea Nitrate are as follows: - Ingredients - --------------- [1] 1 cup concentrated solution of uric acid (C5 H4 N4 O3) [2] 1/3 cup of nitric acid [3] 4 heat-resistant glass containers [4] 4 filters (coffee filters will do) Filter the concentrated solution of uric acid through a filter to remove impurities. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the solution and let the mixture stand for 1 hour. Filter again as before. This time the Urea Nitrate crystals will collect on the filter. Wash the crystals by pouring water over them while they are in the filter. Remove the crystals from the filter and allow 16 hours for them to dry. This explosive will need a blasting cap to detonate. It may be necessary to make a quantity larger than the aforementioned list calls for to bring about an explosion great enough to cause the Uranium (or Plutonium) sections to weld together on impact. Neutron Deflector ----------------- The neutron deflector is comprised solely of Uranium-238. Not only is U-238 non-fissionable, it also has the unique ability to reflect neutrons back to their source. The U-238 neutron deflector can serve 2 purposes. In a Uranium bomb, the neutron deflector serves as a safeguard to keep an accidental supercritical mass from occurring by bouncing the stray neutrons from the `bullet' counterpart of the Uranium mass away from the greater mass below it (and vice- versa). The neutron deflector in a Plutonium bomb actually helps the wedges of Plutonium retain their neutrons by `reflecting' the stray particles back into the center of the assembly. [See diagram in Section 4 of this file.] Uranium & Plutonium ------------------- Uranium-235 is very difficult to extract. In fact, for every 25,000 tons of Uranium ore that is mined from the earth, only 50 tons of Uranium metal can be refined from that, and 99.3% of that metal is U-238 which is too stable to be used as an active agent in an atomic detonation. To make matters even more complicated, no ordinary chemical extraction can separate the two isotopes since both U-235 and U-238 possess precisely identical chemical characteristics. The only methods that can effectively separate U-235 from U-238 are mechanical methods. U-235 is slightly, but only slightly, lighter than its counterpart, U-238. A system of gaseous diffusion is used to begin the separating process between the two isotopes. In this system, Uranium is combined with fluorine to form Uranium Hexafluoride gas. This mixture is then propelled by low- pressure pumps through a series of extremely fine porous barriers. Because the U-235 atoms are lighter and thus propelled faster than the U-238 atoms, they could penetrate the barriers more rapidly. As a result, the U-235's concentration became successively greater as it passed through each barrier. After passing through several thousand barriers, the Uranium Hexafluoride contains a relatively high concentration of U-235 -- 2% pure Uranium in the case of reactor fuel, and if pushed further could (theoretically) yield up to 95% pure Uranium for use in an atomic bomb. Once the process of gaseous diffusion is finished, the Uranium must be refined once again. Magnetic separation of the extract from the previous enriching process is then implemented to further refine the Uranium. This involves electrically charging Uranium Tetrachloride gas and directing it past a weak electromagnet. Since the lighter U-235 particles in the gas stream are less affected by the magnetic pull, they can be gradually separated from the flow. Following the first two procedures, a third enrichment process is then applied to the extract from the second process. In this procedure, a gas centrifuge is brought into action to further separate the lighter U-235 from its heavier counter-isotope. Centrifugal force separates the two isotopes of Uranium by their mass. Once all of these procedures have been completed, all that need be done is to place the properly molded components of Uranium-235 inside a warhead that will facilitate an atomic detonation. Supercritical mass for Uranium-235 is defined as 110 lbs (50 kgs) of pure Uranium. Depending on the refining process(es) used when purifying the U-235 for use, along with the design of the warhead mechanism and the altitude at which it detonates, the explosive force of the A-bomb can range anywhere from 1 kiloton (which equals 1,000 tons of TNT) to 20 megatons (which equals 20 million tons of TNT -- which, by the way, is the smallest strategic nuclear warhead we possess today. {Point in fact -- One Trident Nuclear Submarine carries as much destructive power as 25 World War II's}). While Uranium is an ideally fissionable material, it is not the only one. Plutonium can be used in an atomic bomb as well. By leaving U-238 inside an atomic reactor for an extended period of time, the U-238 picks up extra particles (neutrons especially) and gradually is transformed into the element Plutonium. Plutonium is fissionable, but not as easily fissionable as Uranium. While Uranium can be detonated by a simple 2-part gun-type device, Plutonium must be detonated by a more complex 32-part implosion chamber along with a stronger conventional explosive, a greater striking velocity and a simultaneous triggering mechanism for the conventional explosive packs. Along with all of these requirements comes the additional task of introducing a fine mixture of Beryllium and Polonium to this metal while all of these actions are occurring. Supercritical mass for Plutonium is defined as 35.2 lbs (16 kgs). This amount needed for a supercritical mass can be reduced to a smaller quantity of 22 lbs (10 kgs) by surrounding the Plutonium with a U-238 casing. To illustrate the vast difference between a Uranium gun-type detonator and a Plutonium implosion detonator, here is a quick rundown. ============================================================================ [1] Uranium Detonator ----------------- Comprised of 2 parts. Larger mass is spherical and concave. Smaller mass is precisely the size and shape of the `missing' section of the larger mass. Upon detonation of conventional explosive, the smaller mass is violently injected and welded to the larger mass. Supercritical mass is reached, chain reaction follows in one millionth of a second. [2] Plutonium Detonator ------------------- Comprised of 32 individual 45-degree pie-shaped sections of Plutonium surrounding a Beryllium/Polonium mixture. These 32 sections together form a sphere. All of these sections must have the precisely equal mass (and shape) of the others. The shape of the detonator resembles a soccerball. Upon detonation of conventional explosives, all 32 sections must merge with the B/P mixture within 1 ten-millionths of a second. ____________________________________________________________________________ - Diagram - ------------- ____________________________________________________________________________ | [Uranium Detonator] | [Plutonium Detonator] ______________________________________|_____________________________________ _____ | | :| | . [2] . | :| | . ~ \_/ ~ . | [2]:| | .. . .. | :| | [2]| . |[2] | .:| | . ~~~ . . . ~~~ . `...::' | . . . . . _ ~~~ _ | . . ~ . . . `| |':.. | [2]\. . . . [1] . . . ./[2] . | | `:::. | ./ . ~~~ . \. | | `::: | . . : . . . | | :::: | . . . . . | [1] | ::|:: | . ___ . ___ . . `. .' ,::||: | [2]| . |[2] ~~~ ::|||: | .' _ `. .. [2] .::|||:' | . / \ . ::... ..::||||:' | ~ -[2]- ~ :::::::::::::||||::' | ``::::||||||||:'' | ``:::::'' | | | | | [1] = Collision Point | [1] = Collision Point [2] - Uranium Section(s) | [2] = Plutonium Section(s) | | ______________________________________|_____________________________________ ============================================================================ Lead Shield ----------- The lead shield's only purpose is to prevent the inherent radioactivity of the bomb's payload from interfering with the other mechanisms of the bomb. The neutron flux of the bomb's payload is strong enough to short circuit the internal circuitry and cause an accidental or premature detonation. Fuses ----- The fuses are implemented as another safeguard to prevent an accidental detonation of both the conventional explosives and the nuclear payload. These fuses are set near the surface of the `nose' of the bomb so that they can be installed easily when the bomb is ready to be launched. The fuses should be installed only shortly before the bomb is launched. To affix them before it is time could result in an accident of catastrophic proportions. ============================================================================ -End of section 3- -Documentation & Diagrams of the Atomic Bomb- -------------------------------- File courtesy of Outlaw Labs -------------------------------- IV. The Diagram of the Atomic Bomb ------------------------------ [Gravity Bomb Model] ---------------------------- -> Cutaway Sections Visible <- ============================================================================ /\ / \ <---------------------------[1] / \ _________________/______\_________________ | : ||: ~ ~ : | [2]-------> | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | :______||:_____________________________: | |/_______||/______________________________\| \ ~\ | | / \ |\ | | / \ | \ | | / \ | \ | | / \ |___\ |______________| / \ | \ |~ \ / \|_______\|_________________\_/ |_____________________________| / \ / _________________ \ / _/ \_ \ / __/ \__ \ / / \ \ /__ _/ \_ __\ [3]_______________________________ \ _| / / \ \ \ / / \/ \ \ / / ___________ \ \ | / __/___________\__ \ | | |_ ___ /=================\ ___ _| | [4]---------> _||___|====|[[[[[[[|||]]]]]]]|====|___||_ <--------[4] | | |-----------------| | | | | |o=o=o=o=o=o=o=o=o| <-------------------[5] | | \_______________/ | | | |__ |: :| __| | | | \______________ |: :| ______________/ | | | | ________________\|: :|/________________ | | | |/ |::::|: :|::::| \| | [6]----------------------> |::::|: :|::::| <---------------------[6] | | |::::|: :|::::| | | | | |::==|: :|== <------------------------[9] | | |::__\: :/__::| | | | | |:: ~: :~ ::| | | [7]----------------------------> \_/ ::| | | | |~\________/~\|:: ~ ::|/~\________/~| | | | ||:: <-------------------------[8] | |_/~~~~~~~~\_/|::_ _ _ _ _::|\_/~~~~~~~~\_| | [9]-------------------------->_=_=_=_=_::| | | | | :::._______.::: | | | | .:::| |:::.. | | | | ..:::::'| |`:::::.. | | [6]---------------->.::::::' || || `::::::.<---------------[6] | | .::::::' | || || | `::::::. | | /| | .::::::' | || || | `::::::. | | | | | .:::::' | || <-----------------------------[10] | | |.:::::' | || || | `:::::.| | | | ||::::' | |`. .'| | `::::|| | [11]___________________________ ``~'' __________________________[11] : | | \:: \ / ::/ | | | | | \:_________|_|\/__ __\/|_|_________:/ | | / | | | __________~___:___~__________ | | | || | | | | |:::::::| | | | | [12] /|: | | | | |:::::::| | | | | |~~~~~ / |: | | | | |:::::::| | | | | |----> / /|: | | | | |:::::::| <-----------------[10] | / / |: | | | | |:::::::| | | | | | / |: | | | | |::::<-----------------------------[13] | / /|: | | | | |:::::::| | | | | | / / |: | | | | `:::::::' | | | | | _/ / /:~: | | | `: ``~'' :' | | | | | / / ~.. | | |: `: :' :| | | |->| / / : | | ::: `. .' <----------------[11] | |/ / ^ ~\| \ ::::. `. .' .:::: / | | ~ /|\ | \_::::::. `. .' .::::::_/ | |_______| | \::::::. `. .' .:::<-----------------[6] |_________\:::::.. `~.....~' ..:::::/_________| | \::::::::.......::::::::/ | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | `. .' `. .' `. .' `:. .:' `::. .::' `::.. ..::' `:::.. ..:::' `::::::... ..::::::' [14]------------------> `:____:::::::::::____:' <-----------------[14] ```::::_____::::''' ~~~~~ ============================================================================ - Diagram Outline - --------------------- [1] - Tail Cone [2] - Stabilizing Tail Fins [3] - Air Pressure Detonator [4] - Air Inlet Tube(s) [5] - Altimeter/Pressure Sensors [6] - Lead Shield Container [7] - Detonating Head [8] - Conventional Explosive Charge [9] - Packing [10] - Uranium (U-235) [Plutonium (See other diagram)] [11] - Neutron Deflector (U-238) [12] - Telemetry Monitoring Probes [13] - Receptacle for U-235 upon detonation to facilitate supercritical mass. [14] - Fuses (inserted to arm bomb) ============================================================================ - Diagram for Plutonium Bomb - -------------------------------- [Gravity Bomb - Implosion Model] -------------------------------- -> Cutaway Sections Visible <- ============================================================================ /\ / \ <---------------------------[1] / \ _________________/______\_________________ | : ||: ~ ~ : | [2]-------> | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | : ||: : | | :______||:_____________________________: | |/_______||/______________________________\| \ ~\ | : |:| / \ |\ | : |:| / \ | \ | :__________|:| / \ |:_\ | :__________\:| / \ |___\ |______________| / \ | \ |~ \ / \|_______\|_________________\_/ |_____________________________| / \ / \ / \ / _______________ \ / ___/ \___ \ /____ __/ \__ ____\ [3]_______________________________ \ ___| / __/ \ \__ \ / / \/ \ \ / / ___________ \ \ / / __/___________\__ \ \ ./ /__ ___ /=================\ ___ __\ \. [4]-------> ___||___|====|[[[[[|||||||]]]]]|====|___||___ <------[4] / / |=o=o=o=o=o=o=o=o=| <-------------------[5] .' / \_______ _______/ \ `. : |___ |*| ___| : .' | \_________________ |*| _________________/ | `. : | ___________ ___ \ |*| / ___ ___________ | : : |__/ \ / \_\\*//_/ \ / \__| : : |______________:|:____:: **::****:|:********\ <---------[6] .' /:|||||||||||||'`|;..:::::::::::..;|'`|||||||*|||||:\ `. [7]----------> ||||||' .:::;~|~~~___~~~|~;:::. `|||||*|| <-------[7] : |:|||||||||' .::'\ ..:::::::::::.. /`::. `|||*|||||:| : : |:|||||||' .::' .:::''~~ ~~``:::. `::. `|\***\|:| : : |:|||||' .::\ .::''\ | [9] | /``::: /::. `|||*|:| : [8]------------>::' .::' \|_________|/ `::: `::. `|* <-----[6] `. \:||' .::' ::'\ [9] . . . [9] /::: `::. *|:/ .' : \:' :::'.::' \ . . / `::.`::: *:/ : : | .::'.::'____\ [10] . [10] /____`::.`::.*| : : | :::~::: | . . . | :::~:::*| : : | ::: :: [9] | . . ..:.. . . | [9] :: :::*| : : \ ::: :: | . :\_____________________________[11] `. \`:: ::: ____| . . . |____ ::: ::'/ .' : \:;~`::. / . [10] [10] . \ .::'~::/ : `. \:. `::. / . . . \ .::' .:/ .' : \:. `:::/ [9] _________ [9] \:::' .:/ : `. \::. `:::. /| |\ .:::' .::/ .' : ~~\:/ `:::./ | [9] | \.:::' \:/~~ : `:=========\::. `::::... ...::::' .::/=========:' `: ~\::./ ```:::::::::''' \.::/~ :' `. ~~~~~~\| ~~~ |/~~~~~~ .' `. \:::...:::/ .' `. ~~~~~~~~~ .' `. .' `:. .:' `::. .::' `::.. ..::' `:::.. ..:::' `::::::... ..::::::' [12]------------------> `:____:::::::::::____:' <-----------------[12] ```::::_____::::''' ~~~~~ ============================================================================ - Diagram Outline - --------------------- [1] - Tail Cone [2] - Stabilizing Tail Fins [3] - Air Pressure Detonator [4] - Air Inlet Tube(s) [5] - Altimeter/Pressure Sensors [6] - Electronic Conduits & Fusing Circuits [7] - Lead Shield Container [8] - Neutron Deflector (U-238) [9] - Conventional Explosive Charge(s) [10] - Plutonium (Pu-239) [11] - Receptacle for Beryllium/Polonium mixture to facilitate atomic detonation reaction. [12] - Fuses (inserted to arm bomb) ============================================================================ -End of section 4- -Documentation & Diagrams of the Atomic Bomb- ## Terrorist Handbook Also found at: http://phoenix.phreebyrd.com/~nero/tth/thb_title.html The Terrorist's Handbook ------------------------ Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O and B.S. of Hardbodies Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling checker.......This file NEEDED IT! (*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*) SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO: Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files! Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there! The Producer : For getting the files to me.... The Director : For getting the files to me.... Mr.Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!! The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!! This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!! This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi .....Wherever you both may be..... THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD 1.0 INTRODUCTION Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals. The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all the more frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information, and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is the reason for the existence of this publication. 1.1 Table of Contents DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD 2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS 2.01 ........ Black Powder 2.02 ........ Pyrodex 2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder 2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder 2.05 ........ Flash Powder 2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS 2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks 2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY 2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 2.31 ........ Nitric Acid 2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid 2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES 3.01 ........ Explosive Theory 3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES 3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals 3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate 3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine 3.14 ........ Picrates 3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.21 ........ Black Powder 3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose 3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures 3.24 ........ Perchlorates 3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) 3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.33 ........ ANFOS 3.34 ........ T.N.T. 3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate 3.36 ........ Dynamite 3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives 3.38 ........ Picric Acid 3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) 3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride 3.41 ........ Lead Azide 3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" 3.51 ........ Thermit 3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails 3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle 3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives 4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES 4.1 ....... SAFETY 4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES 4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition 4.22 ........ Impact Ignition 4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition 4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition 4.241 ....... Mercury Switches 4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches 4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators 4.3 ....... DELAYS 4.31 ........ Fuse Delays 4.32 ........ Timer Delays 4.33 ........ Chemical Delays 4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS 4.41 ........ Paper Containers 4.42 ........ Metal Containers 4.43 ........ Glass Containers 4.44 ........ Plastic Containers 4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES 4.51 ........ Shaped Charges 4.52 ........ Tube Explosives 4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions 4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs 4.55 ........ Book Bombs 4.56 ........ Phone Bombs 5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS 5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) 5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition 5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition 5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition 5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) 5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition 5.22 ........ Shotguns 5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) 5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition 5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition 6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS 6.1 ....... ROCKETS 6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb 6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb 6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs 6.2 ........ CANNONS 6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon 6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon 7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA 7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs 7.2 ......... Colored Flames 7.3 ......... Tear Gas 7.4 ......... Fireworks 7.41 ........ Firecrackers 7.42 ........ Skyrockets 7.43 ........ Roman Candles 8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION 9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS 10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY 11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR 2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. 2.01 BLACK POWDER Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below: GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN DDDDD DDDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDD F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in America. 2.02 PYRODEX Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. 2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. 2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. 2.05 FLASH POWDER Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. 2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. 2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour. 2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket- knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out >From the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: (1) _________________________________________________________ v 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | ^ Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this: __________________________________________ / ________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_| _____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________| _____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________ \____________________| All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made properly. 2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. Chemical Used In Available at ________ _______ ____________ _____________________________________________________________________________ alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores ____________________________________________________________________________ lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores _____________________________________________________________________________ glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store _____________________________________________________________________________ charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store _____________________________________________________________________________ cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate water purification purification plants _____________________________________________________________________________ hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores methenamine (camping) _____________________________________________________________________________ nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops plates photography stores _____________________________________________________________________________ iodine & first aid drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores for cutting torches _____________________________________________________________________________ notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. 2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 2.31 NITRIC ACID There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! Materials: Equipment: DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source potassium nitrate retort distilled water ice bath concentrated sulfuric acid stirring rod collecting flask with stopper 1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. 2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. 3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the ice bath. 4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it. Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. 2.32 SULFURIC ACID Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil. 2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water. 3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually scaled-down industrial procedures. 3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may do both. High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives. Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order explosives. Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. 3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. 3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: Materials Equipment DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD iodine crystals funnel and filter paper paper towels clear ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars for the suicidal) 1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. 2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. 3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel. 4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. 5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. 6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about eight chunks. 7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed. 3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably use the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2) acid (35 ml) adjustable heat ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source distilled water blue litmus paper funnel and filter paper 1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, using the glass rod. 2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the solution turns green and boils. 3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. 4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the solution. 5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and toxic. 6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the wet crystals 7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from any explosive or flammable material. This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of mercury. 3.13 NITROGLYCERINE Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: MATERIAL EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD distilled water eye-dropper table salt 100 ml beaker sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) concentrated nitric ice bath container acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer acid (39 ml) blue litmus paper glycerine 1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. 2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved. 3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall temperature. 4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. 5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this. 6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities. 7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. 8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. 9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. 10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place. 3.14 PICRATES Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive. 3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order explosives. 3.21 BLACK POWDER First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD potassium clay grinding bowl nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder or or sodium wooden salad bowl nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) distilled water coffee pot or heat source 1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. 2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag. 3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. 4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. 5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. 6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity. 3.22 NITROCELLULOSE Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers concentrated funnel and filter paper nitric acid blue litmus paper concentrated sulfuric acid distilled water 1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. 2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes. 3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in. 4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. 5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored. 3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes ================================================================================ potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact sensitive; unstable DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; charcoal 15% unstable DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely magnesium or unstable! aluminum dust 25% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable aluminum dust 33% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable sulfur 5% burn rate DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before ignition depends WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable magnesium or aluminum dust 20% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is sulfur 10% black powder! DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot or magnesium 40% oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes ================================================================================ potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for and small amount of space shuttle iron oxide DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder (sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate (sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder sulfur 20% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate aluminum dust 5% flash powder DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly magnesium or unstable aluminum dust 25% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; aluminum or ignites if magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable sulfur 10% ================================================================================ NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning. As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture. 3.24 PERCHLORATES As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are ideal. 3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES High order explosives can be made in the home without too much difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. 3.31 R.D.X. R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD hexamine 500 ml beaker or methenamine glass stirring rod fuel tablets (50 g) funnel and filter paper concentrated nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket) distilled water centigrade thermometer table salt blue litmus paper ice ammonium nitrate 1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. 2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture. 3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes 4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid. 5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe. 6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. 7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. 8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. 9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. 10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. 3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap- hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The diagram below will explain. _________________________________________ | | | ________| | | | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | |primer |booster| | |_______| | | | | | |_______|_______________________________| The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. 3.33 ANFOS ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off. 3.34 T.N.T. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is filtered. 3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making such an explosive is outlined below: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag (9 parts, by volume) petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl (vaseline) or (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon 1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. 2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. 3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. 4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. 3.36 DYNAMITE The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. 3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated. 3.38 PICRIC ACID Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask concentrated adjustable heat source sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1000 ml beaker concentrated nitric or other container acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in distilled water filter paper and funnel glass stirring rod 1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. 2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil. 3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes. 4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. 5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. 6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold. 7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. 8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. 9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. 10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously. 3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. 3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to produce. 1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. 2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass pipe. 3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water. 4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. 3.41 LEAD AZIDE Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. 3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. 3.51 THERMIT Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. MATERIALS DDDDDDDDD powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) 1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. 2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited. 3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown 3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate glass bottle (2 teaspoons) (12 oz.) sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, with plastic inside concentrated cooking pan with raised sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels glass or plastic cup and spoon 1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. 2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. 3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry. 4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. 5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry. 6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. 7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface. 8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. 9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame. 3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. 4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section. 4.1 SAFETY There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. 4.2 IGNITION DEVICES There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide. 4.21 FUSE IGNITION The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: MATERIALS _________ strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape waterproof fuse 1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below: Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds. 20 seconds DDDDDDDDDD = 2.5 seconds per inch. 8 inches If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch: 10 seconds DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD = 4 inches 2.5 seconds / inch NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! 2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off. 3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter. 4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. 5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. _____________________ \ / \ / ------ match book cover \ / | M|f|M ---|------- match head | A|u|A | | T|s|T | | C|e|C | |tapeH|.|Htape| | |f| | |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper |#####|s|#####| \ |e| / \ |.| / \ |f| / \ |u| / |ta|s|pe| |ta|e|pe| |.| |f| |u| |s| |e| |.| |_| The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled. 6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads. 4.22 IMPACT IGNITION Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator. The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: ________________ | | _ | | | | _______| |^^^^^^^^| | | ___________| | | | | no. 11 |_______| | percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing cap here | | | nipple onto bomb | |___________ | |_______ | | | |^^^^^^^^^| | |_| | | |________________| When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. 4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. 4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed 4.241 Mercury Switches Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch. ______________ A / \ B _____wire +______/___________ \ \ ( Hg ) | / \ _(_Hg_)__|___/ | | wire - | | | When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it slammed in your face by an explosion. 4.242 Tripwire Switches A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to explode. __________________________________ \_foil___________________________/ Insert strip of ----------------------------spring wood with trip- _foil__________________________ wire between foil /_______________________________\ contacts. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the spring also conducts electricity. 4.243 Radio Control Detonators In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). 4.3 DELAYS A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does. 4.31 FUSE DELAYS It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed. |=| |=| ---------- filter |=| | | | | |o| ---------- hole for fuse cigarette ------------ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_| ---------- light this end A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. 4.32 TIMER DELAYS Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired. ___________________________________ to igniter from igniter | | | 12 | : : | 11 1 | : : | | : : | 10 2 | : : | o................|......: : | | : | 9 3 | : | | : | | : | 8 4 | : | o.........|...... : | 7 5 | : : | 6 | :.+.....-.....: |__________________________________| __|_____| | | | battery | o - contacts | | ..... - wire | | |___________| This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit, allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib. The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up. 4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page. _ _ | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_____________| | | | | | | | sulfuric | | | | | | | | acid | | | | | |---------- aluminum foil | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) |_________________| The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways. 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid. 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermit. 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. 4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. 4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so that it looks like this: ________________________________________________________ | |\ | | \ | | \ |______________________________________________________|___\ and then fold it again so that it looks like this: _______________________________________________________ | /| | / | | / | |__________________________________________________/___| A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one shown below: ^ / \ ----- securely tape all corners / \ / \ / \ / \ / \____________________________ /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse 4.42 METAL CONTAINERS The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2. _________ _______________ __________ | | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | | | |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ___________________________ | | | | | | | | | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| | |_______| |________| fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps. ________ ________ | _____|________________________________|_____ | | |__________________________________________| | | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | |________|_________________________________| | | |__________________________________________| | |______| |______| endcap pipe endcap w/ hole fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: ________ _______________________________________________/ | | | | o | |______________________________________________ | \_______| fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) ______ ____________________________________________/ | | | | | | o | | |___________________________________________ | | \__|__| fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) ____________ fuse hole | v _________________________________________________ | \ |____ | | \____| | | ______| | / |_____________________________/__________________ fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) _________________ fuse / | ________ ______________________________|___ _______ | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ | | |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | |________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______| \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / \_____________________________________/ fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive (side view) A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called "crater makers". A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit. The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order explosive would probably be used. It would look something like: _______________________ fuse | | | _________ | _________ | ____|__________________________|___________|____ | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | | | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | | | | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | | | | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | | | | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | | | | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | |______________________________________________| | |_______| |_______| If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. 4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. ________________________ fuse | | | _____|_____ | ___|___ | | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > | < | | | | | | | | | | screw cap on bottle | | | | V V _________ < > < > < > / \ / \ / \ | | fill bottle with low-order explosive | | | | | | | | |___________| Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was able to detonate. 4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type of device. || || || || ||\_____________/|| || || || epoxy || ||_______________|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||** explosive **|| ||***************|| ||***********----------------------- fuse ||***************|| ||DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| || || || epoxy || || _____________ || ||/ \|| || || || || One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. 4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high- order explosives. 4.51 SHAPED CHARGES A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + wire ________ _______ - wire | | | | | | _ _________|_________|____________ ^ | ________|_________|__________ | | | | | | | | | | | \ igniter / | | | | | \_______/ | | | | | priming charge | | | | | (mercury fulminate) | | | | | ^ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | / \ | | 8 inches high | | / \ | | | | / high \ | | | | | / explosive \ | | | | | / charge \ | | | | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | | | ^ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch | | | / \ | | thick steel | | | / \ | | pipe | | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | hole for | | | | hole for | screw | | | | screw | | | | | V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| |<------- 8 inches -------->| If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful electromagnet. 4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like this: || || || || ||\____/|| || epoxy|| ||______|| || || ||tissue|| || paper|| ||______|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || RDX || ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || ____ || || | s| || || | q| || || | u| || || | i| || || | b| || || | b| || || |__| || ||__||__|| ||tissue|| || paper|| ||__||__|| || || || || epoxy|| || || || || _||_ || ||/ || \|| || || || || || || ||_______ + wire ______________ | |________ - wire ______________ When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. 4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material. 4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on the light. 4.55 BOOK BOMBS Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: ________________________ | ____________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |__________________| | |______________________| (book covers omitted) This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination. 4.56 PHONE BOMBS The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes... 5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows to shotguns. 5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. 5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high- order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: _____ | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap ||*|| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| ----------- aluminum piping |*| |e| |x| |p| |l| |o| |s| |i| |v| |e| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| /|_|\ / |t| \ | |p| | | |_| | | |e| | -------- fins | |p| | | |y| | |_|_|_| |_| tp: tissue paper epy: epoxy When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive. 5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: ____________________ /mercury | \----------------------- (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels \________|___________/----------------------- 5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. 5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. 5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below. _o_ ------------ drop of wax /|*|\ | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive | |_| | |_____| This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. 5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun- launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: ____ || | || | || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel || | ||__| || | || | ------- fuse || | || || || || --------- dowel || || || || || || --------- insert this end into shotgun 5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. 5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: _____ primers _______ | | | | | | V V ______ ______ | ________________________ |------------------- | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or | ________________________ |------------------- cotton |_____ _____|------------------- ^ | | |_______ antenna tubing The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long. 5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. 6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. 6.1 ROCKETS Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. __________________________________________________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| ______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard casing The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay. NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. 6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. ____________ rocket engine | _________ crater maker | | | | V | _______________________________V_ |_______________________________| ______________________ \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ |_______________________________| thrust> - - - - - - smoke> *** ejection charge> :::: Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: |\ | \ | \ | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine | \ | \ | \ | | | | | | leading edge | -------> | | | | | trailing edge | | <-------- | | | | | | | | \_____/ The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. | fin | <------ fin | | | | | | | __|__ | V / \ V ---------------| |--------------- \_____/ |o <----------- segment of plastic straw | | | <------ fin | | By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one illustated on the following page: ____ / \ | | cut here _____ | | | | | | / \ V / \ _________________/ \________________ / \ / \ /____________________________________________\ ^ | | and here ______| Bend wire to this shape: _______ insert into straw | | | V ____________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle | | | | | | <---------- put this end in ground | 6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi- stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker | | | | |___| | | | | | | | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine /| 6 |\ / | | | \ / | 5 | \ / |___| \ ---- fin / /| |\ \ / / | | \ \ / / | | \ \ / / | C | \ \ | / | 6 | \ | | / | | | \ | | / | 0 | \ | |/ |___| \| | / \ | \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin | | | | C6-0 rocket engine The fuse is put in the bottom engine. Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger. 6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | |___| ___| |___ | | | | | | T | | / \ | U | / \ / \| B |/ \ | || E || | | C || || C | | M || || M | | ||___|| | \___/| E |\___/ | N | /| G |\ / | I | \ / | N | \ / | E | \ / |___| \ / fin/ | \ fin\ | / | \ | \__/ | \__/ ^ |____ fin The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape. the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder. Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it. 6.2 CANNON The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. 6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: __________________ fuse hole | | V ________________________________________________________________ | |______________________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________| An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |\ /| | | | ---- tape |_|_| | | ------ fuse 6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |___| | E | | N | | G | | I | | N | | E | |___| the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity. 7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines. Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. 7.1 SMOKE BOMBS One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. 7.2 COLORED FLAMES Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear below. COLOR MATERIAL USED IN DDDDD DDDDDDDD DDDDDDD _______________________________________________________________________________ red strontium road flares, salts red sparklers (strontium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ green barium salts green sparklers (barium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ yellow sodium salts gold sparklers (sodium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ blue powdered copper blue sparklers, old pennies _______________________________________________________________________________ white powdered magnesium firestarters, or aluminum aluminum foil _______________________________________________________________________________ purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, treating sewage DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD 7.3 TEAR GAS A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. EQUIPMENT _________ 1. ring stands (2) 2. alcohol burner 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 4. clamps (2) 5. rubber stopper 6. glass tubing 7. clamp holder 8. condenser 9. rubber tubing 10. collecting flask 11. air trap 12. beaker, 300 ml MATERIALS _________ 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water 1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. 2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. 3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. 4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive. 5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. 7.4 FIREWORKS While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit, or nasty uses. 7.41 FIRECRACKERS A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below: 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse. 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy. 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry. 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. 7.42 SKYROCKETS An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch. 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced. 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced. 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. 7.43 ROMAN CANDLES Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble. 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry. 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil. 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. 8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes fireworks companies and the like. COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING MURFREESBORO, TN 37133 _______________________________________________________________________________ UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OREGON 97838 _______________________________________________________________________________ AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 _______________________________________________________________________________ BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES P.O. BOX 226 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 _______________________________________________________________________________ CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS P.O. BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 14692 _______________________________________________________________________________ EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES RENO, NEVADA 89509 _______________________________________________________________________________ BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 53547 _______________________________________________________________________________ NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 06095 _______________________________________________________________________________ RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 _______________________________________________________________________________ STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 _______________________________________________________________________________ WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) ROCHESTER, INDIANNA 46975 _______________________________________________________________________________ BOOKS DDDDD THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL MILITARY EXPLOSIVES FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS 9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the following: LIQUIDS SOLIDS _______ ______ ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum ____ Potassium Permanganate ____ Sulfur ____ Mercury ____ Potassium Nitrate ____ Potassium Hydroxide ____ Phosphorus ____ Sodium Azide ____ Lead Acetate ____ Barium Nitrate 10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school chemistry book. 1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O 4 4 2 2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide " + HNO ----> KNO + " 3 3 3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " 3 4 3 4 4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " 3 3 3 3 5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H 3 2 B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al 3 2 The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess. 11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He was raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce explosive devices for several years. He also became interested in model rocketry, and has built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While in high school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro- Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then decided to reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that produces effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day of the year. Pax et Discordia, the Author HERE ENDS THE FIRST PUBLICATION OF THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK. THIS IS THE ONLY AUTHORIZED PUBLICATION, AND THE SOLE PRODUCTION RIGHTS BELONG TO CHAOS INDUSTRIES AND GUNZENBOMZ PYRO-TECHNOLOGIES. ## weapons A-bomb ammo ammunition armaments arms arrow assault rifle atom bomb atomic bomb autocannon automatic rifle axe ballista ballistic missile bat baton battle axe bayonet bazooka billy club biological weapon blackjack blade blaster blowgun blowpipe bludgeon bomb boobytrap boomerang bow and arrow Bowie knife brass knuckles bullet bullwhip cannon carbine catapault cat o'nine tails cleaver club crossbow cudgel cutlass dagger dart depth charge epee explosives firearm flail flamethrower flintlock foil Gatling gun grenade grenade launcher guided missile gun gunpowder halberd hand grenade handgun harpoon hatchet howitzer hunting knife javelin katena knife knout kris lance landmine longbow longsword mace machete machine gun magnum maul mine missile morning star mortar munitions musket mustard gas muzzleloader nerve gas night stick nuclear bomb nunchaku (numchucks) onager ordnance peashooter pepper spray pickaxe pike pistol pommel quarterstaff rapier revolver rifle rocket rocket launcher saber scimitar scythe semiautomatic shell shillelagh shooter shotgun sickle slingshot spear spiked mace stiletto stun gun submachine gun switchblade sword tank tank gun taser tear gas tomahawk torpedo trebuchet trident tripwire truncheon Uzi weapon weapon of mass destruction weaponry whip