# How to grow plants Besides [accounting](money-accounting.md) and [construction](engineering.md), one of the oldest-standing professions was farming. - Across written history, *most* humanity worked a farm until recent developments in technology freed them up to [make their own career](jobs-specialization.md). - Having a side garden can be a [healthy](body-4_health.md) addition (or even *replacement*) to your standard diet, as well as giving you more [protection](safety-riskmgmt.md) against [a large-scale disaster](hardship-disaster-1_short.md). Growing plants runs through a relatively predictable yearly pattern: 1. Plant the summer seeds in a well-lit, high-humidity, semi-enclosed area called a greenhouse, or use a hotbed. 2. Plow the area you're going to plant and spread fertilizer over it. - Mix animal fur, hair, or hay into the soil to suppress pests. - Overlap wet newspapers and cover with mulch before planting to prevent weeds. 3. Once you see shoots, move the plants to the plowed soil. - Space them out so they won't overlap or fight for space underground. - The plant's volume above-ground is approximately what its root system looks like, though it *very* heavily varies by the plant type. 4. Daily maintenance: Prune the trees, irrigate and weed the plants, scare off birds and small animals. - Pests are usually a sign the plant lacks water, light, or nutrients. - Make a scarecrow to save the trouble of running outside to scare birds. - Sprinkle your plants with cayenne pepper to keep small animals away. 5. Harvest the food and clean it. - Harvest leafy greens and lumber by pulling a bit off each plant to avoid killing it. - Get it while it's either ripe or near-ripe, since bugs will eat anything that starts decomposing. 6. Sow the winter seeds, mill and can the harvest. 7. Reap the winter food, [repair](https://adequate.life/fix/) all the tools and equipment during winter. ## Selecting Consider what's in the soil. - Soil is made of mostly clay, silt, and sand. - Clay can be difficult to dig into, and often needs richer soil around the seeds for the plants to successfully take root. - Sand is easy to dig into, but doesn't have many nutrients for the plants. - Silt is the most nutrient-rich part of soil, but too much silt can "burn" the plant's roots. - The ideal mixture, if it's possible, is "loam", which is any mix of sand and silt without much clay. Some plants work best for a region based on the amount of sunlight it gets, the relative temperatures and ranges, and the amount of moisture and rainfall. - The region's temperature defines its [hardiness zone](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardiness_zone). Be careful about the salinity of the soil. - Salt in the soil can *destroy* any chance of plants growing. - If you're near a body of salt water, kelp helps remove salt from soil. Cycle your crops each year. - Perennials tend to add value to the soil (since they continue to contribute), while annuals deplete it (since they're gone every year). - Mono-cultures (one type of plant) will *ravage* biodiversity and increase issues like pests and mildew, while a vast variety of cycling plants will enrich the soil. - Generally, every year a plant will consume some of the soil's nutrients and produce "waste" nutrients, so cycle out each region for different plants to keep yourself from depleting the soil. - After a few years, the nutrients that come from nature will mostly deplete (e.g., bug corpses, wild animal feces), so the general rule is to abandon the land to the elements one out of every seven years. - Consider using [cattle](agriculture.md) and grass seed to perform rotational farming. To garden with less space, try hydroponics or vertical gardening. - Vertical gardening simply requires hanging anything that can hold dirt (e.g., old rain gutters) in a well-lit area. - Hydroponics involves maintaining plants in water without soil, which is most easily done by farming fish on another part of a body of water where they can't eat the plants but send their waste to it. Near a walkway, only plant trees and bushes that do *not* produce any legitimate fruit. ## Routine For plants to grow, they need a few things: 1. Carbon, which comes from both air and fertilizer 2. Water, which may typically only require rerouting natural runoff from rain 3. Micronutrients, which come from a wide variety of plants and animals interacting with it Since fertilizer's key ingredients are carbon and nitrogen, you can *improvise* fertilizer if you need. - If you have beer, you can pour it over the soil. - Mix 1 tsp of brown sugar into leftover cooked rice, then let it sit for 3 days and mix into the soil. - Bake stale bread, then grind it up into fine breadcrumbs and mix into the soil. - Dilute 2 tbsp Epsom salt per gallon of water and transfer it into a tank sprayer or spray bottle for application. - If you're fertilizing a tree, mix 2 tbsp Epsom salt into the soil at the base of the tree. Make your own nutrient-rich composted fertilizer. 1. Add carbon by including dead grass, leaves, sawdust, or straw. 2. Add nitrogen by including table scraps. 3. Add soil to layer it and add microbes. 4. Add water regularly to accelerate the compost process. 5. Add oxygen by mixing it about once a week. 6. If it starts smelling bad, add more carbon. If you're using containers, watch out for a few additional issues. - You must regulate water *much* more diligently, since the water won't seep into the surrounding soil. - If you can, use orange terracotta pots, since they absorb water. - If the plant roots reach the edge of the pot and start interlocking, the plant will get "root bind". - From that point, the plant will never grow as well and will always be higher-maintenance and at risk of dying. *Whenever* you transplant or move a potted plant, the plant will go into shock. - Even if it's re-potting, the plant is exposed to a new environment and it's a sudden shift. - Take your time with them and they'll recover. Water about once a week, either via rainfall, irrigation, or manually. - Poke holes in a 2-liter bottle to improvise a lawn sprinkler. - Water the roots, not the plant itself. - Water in the morning for the plants to absorb it before it evaporates. - Don't water at night or fungus might grow. - If the soil is too alkaline and the plants need more acid, mix vinegar into the water. Keep up *every* day with weeds. - All gardens have weeds, and the only solution is weed killer or pulling them out. - 1 weed becomes 4 in a week and 50 in two weeks. - Undiluted vinegar in a spray bottle will often kill individual weeds. - Improvise weed killer by mixing a gallon of vinegar, 2 cups of salt or Epsom salt, and 1/4 cup dish soap. ## Issues Watch for any plant leaves that aren't a healthy green color. - If bugs live on or are eating the leaves, kill them on the plant with neem oil or soap. - If the leaves look yellow and wilted, they're overwatered, so replant them elsewhere or drain water by adding sand to the soil. - If the leaves look faded and drooping, they're not getting enough sunlight, so reposition them or move them to a greenhouse. - If the leaves are dry and crunchy to the touch, they're dehydrated, so give at least an additional inch of water a week. - If the edges and tips of the leaves are yellow, they're not getting enough potassium, so add citrus rinds or fruit/vegetable compost. - If the tips and center vein of the leaves are yellow, they're not getting enough nitrogen, so add organic compost like manure or coffee grounds. - If the leaves are misshapen, they're not getting enough calcium, so add gypsum to make it more acidic or lime to make it more alkaline. - If the leaves are showing lighting discoloration between the veins, they're not getting enough zinc, so spray the plant with kelp extract or mix kelp into the soil. - If the leaves are yellow and have small green veins, they're not getting enough iron, so reduce the amount of phosphorus in the soil to make it acidic. - If the leaves are showing white stripes along the veins, they're not getting enough magnesium, so add organic compost, Epsom salts or lime. At scale, you may want to consider more robust ways to improve your yield. - Many genetically modified organisms (GMOs), pesticides, and synthetic fertilizers are an attempt to cut losses and improve yields. - Irrespective of [ethics](morality.md), your yield *will* suffer a drop in the product's actual quality. ## Vegetables NOTE: the season window will be larger or smaller depending on geographical region. Artichokes: Mar-Jun, Sep-Dec Asparagus: Feb-Jun Beans: May-Sep Beets: Sep-May Bell Peppers: Jun-Dec Bok Choy: Sep-Jun Broccoli: Oct-Apr Broccolini: all year Brussels Sprouts: Sep-Feb Cabbage: Oct-Apr Carrots: Oct-Jun Cauliflower: Sep-Jun Celery: all year Celery Root: Oct-Jun Chard: all year Chicory: Dec-Mar Chives: Mar-Nov Collards: Sep-Feb Corn: Jun-Oct Cucumber: Jun-Dec Daikon: Oct-Apr Eggplant: Jun-Oct Endive: Oct-Apr English Peas: Sep-Feb Fava Beans: May-Jul Fennel: all year Garlic: all year Green Beans: Jun-Oct Greens: all year Kale: all year Kohlrabi: Nov-Feb Leeks: Nov-May Lettuce: Oct-Apr Mushrooms: May-Dec Mustard Greens: Oct-Mar New Potatoes: Apr-Sep Okra: Jun-Nov Onions: all year Parsnips: Oct-Nov, Jan-Apr Peas: Apr-Nov Potatoes: all year Pumpkins: Sep-Dec Radishes: Sep-Apr Radicchio: Oct-Mar Ramps: Mar-Nov Rhubarb: Apr-Nov Rutabaga: Nov-Mar Snap Peas: Apr-Jun Spinach: Sep-May Sprouts: all year Squash: Sep-Mar Summer Squash: May-Sep Winter Squash: Oct-Dec Sweet Potatoes: Sep-Dec Swiss Chard: Sep-Apr Turnips: Jan-Apr, Sep-Nov Watercress: Jul-Mar Zucchini: Mar-Oct ## Fruits NOTE: the season window will be larger or smaller depending on geographical region. Apples: Aug-Nov Apricots: May-Jul Avocadoes: all year Bananas: May-Sep Blackberries: May-Aug Blueberries: Jun-Aug Boysenberries: May-Jun Cherries: Apr-Jun Coconuts: Oct-Dec Cranberries: Sep-Dec Dates: Sep-Dec Dewberries: May Figs: Jun-Nov Grapefruits: Sep-Apr Grapes: Jul-Dec Guavas: Nov-Apr Kiwifruits: Jan-Apr Kumquats: Nov-Mar Lemons: all year Limes: Oct-Apr Mango: Jun-Aug Melons: Jun-Sep Nectarines: May-Oct Oranges: Jan-Jun Papaw: Jun-Aug Passion Fruit: all year Peaches: Apr-Oct Pears: Jan-Feb, Aug-Nov Persimmons: Nov-Feb Pineapples: Mar-Nov Plums: May-Nov Pomegranates: Aug-Feb Raspberries: Jun-Aug Strawberries: Mar-Aug Tangerines: Dec-Apr Tomatillos: Jun-Nov Tomatoes: Jun-Nov Watermelon: Jun-Sept ## Herbs NOTE: the season window will be larger or smaller depending on geographical region. Angelica: Apr-Nov Anise: Apr-Nov Arugula: Mar-Nov Basil: May-Oct Bay Leaf: all year Capers: all year Caraway: Apr-Aug Cardamom: Sep-Jan Catnip: Mar-Aug Chamomile: Mar-Aug Chervil: Mar-Sep Cilantro: Apr-Sep Cloves: Sep-Jan Coriander: Apr-Sep Cumin: Apr-Aug Dill: Mar-Sep Fennel: all year Fenugreek: Aug-Dec Ginger: all year Lavender: Jun-Jul Lemongrass: Sep-Mar Mace: Jul-Jan Marjoram: Jun-Mar Mint: Apr-Nov Nutmeg: Jul-Jan Oregano: Jan-Mar, Jun-Dec Parsley: all year Rosemary: all year Sage: May-Jun, improves overall garden quality Savory: all year Sorrel: Apr-Aug Tarragon: Mar-Sep Thyme: Mar-Sep, improves overall garden quality Turmeric: Aug ## Companion planting For various reasons, some plants work really well together. - Most of the time, their root structure will serve to chemically assist the other plant. - Sometimes, the combinations will naturally deter pests. There are *many* combinations. - In particular, corn, beans, and squash (The Three Sisters) work well together. - Be careful to *not* plant some types together, since they can be hostile to each other. ## At scale At some point as you scale, you won't simply need tractors and labor. - Grain bins and silos are critical [logistical elements](logistics.md) to help dry and hold the product until you can get it to market. - Most large-scale farming operations involve heavy [data science](database.md): - Managing the soil across the entire acreage - Regulating moisture between storage and selling of product (since it's sold by weight) - Tracking market prices and either selling via futures contracts or on the open market - Regulating fertilizer usage to maintain the soil - Accommodating for any [weather changes](science-earth-weather.md) through all of it - To gather data, you'll need plenty of sensors, [wireless technology](engineering-radio.md), and [GPS information](logistics-navigation.md). - On a more advanced level, modern farming involves high-end specialized [robotics](computers-robotics.md) that use soil data to precisely plant seeds. For large-scale farming, you do *not* need to own the land it's on, and can often lease it for much less. If you're looking for more yield, you'll probably need to consider GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and non-organic (i.e., using pesticides). - Unless you're aiming to sell non-GMO and organic at a significant premium, your yield will be abysmally low. - GMO seeds are intentionally bred to be infertile, so you'll have to purchase seeds every year. - GMO seeds are also chemically resistant to pesticides, meaning higher yield as well. - However, the downside comes through the food's quality, which will require a faster [logistical system](logistics.md) to get it to market. Unfortunately, like most other things at scale, the large-scale farming business becomes less a domain of actually getting in the soil and working, and more the domain of [management](mgmt-1_why.md) and [economics](economics.md). ## Additional reading [OpenFarm](https://openfarm.cc/) [How to Make a Hotbed](https://plantura.garden/uk/garden-design/hotbed) [Elements necessary for a plant to grow (hydroponics)](https://github.com/hydromisc/hydromisc/blob/master/doc/nutrient-design.md) [The Old Farmer's Almanac Gardening Tips](https://www.almanac.com/gardening)